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Post by kraftt on Mar 3, 2020 18:42:04 GMT -5
Building on what Tom and aas said I would ask how true / smooth those embossed composite board edges are. The lip of the square may register / average area/s farther apart than saw track stops do or hit ridges that the deeper stops rest against vs the shallower lip of square.
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juhan
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by juhan on Aug 1, 2021 12:12:36 GMT -5
I don't have a ks40 but I've done enough research to know there are only 3 blades available to it, all meant for cutting wood. I do own a festool ts55 track saw and have extensive experience in cutting plexiglass/acrylics/dibond/reboard. Yes any good sawblade will cut those materials, but it's not good for the material, not good for the blade and definitely not good for the saw (increased power draw, chatter, more forces on bearings and structure). The shape of the teeth on a blade meant for cutting plastics or soft metals is different to those used for cutting wood. In use when cutting plexiglass or any composite board the difference is huge. When using regular wooden blades the cut will be rough and not very precise, small chips fly away from the edge etc. Once you put in a proper blade the saw will run trough thick plastic like it's butter and the cut quality will be immaculate. When you properly make sure the saw is well set up and the blade is sharp it'll leave plexiglass edges almost as clean as a router.
What all this means is that due to the limited blade choice the KS40/kss300 is NOT SUITABLE for cutting plastics or composite boards/decking in any large quantity or with very good results. I was starting to worry/doubt my coming ks40 purchase reading about the motor issues on the cordless but to me this seems more like using the wrong tool for the job for at least some of the cases.
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Post by lincoln on Aug 4, 2021 16:30:15 GMT -5
They do a 40 tooth TCG blade, for plastics and laminates.
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