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Post by MrToolJunkie on Apr 4, 2020 13:43:58 GMT -5
You might be pulling the saw one way vs letting it do the work. It is easy to do, especially when learning. If you are square at the base and the blade, then it is not the saw. I would check this with the plunger all the way up and all the way down to confirm that there is not an issue with that mechanism. Any of the thicker blades by Bosch (denoted with a DP in the name) or the Festool equivalent Carvex (or old stock Trion branded blades) are thicker and allow for better straight and perpendicular cuts.
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Post by huntsgemein on Apr 5, 2020 1:45:13 GMT -5
Another quick thought: is it possible that one side only (the "off" side from which the blade deflects) of your Cunex blade is damaged?
As with any saw, just a small or slight dulling of the sharpness of one side only of a saw's (hand, circular, recipro, jig etc.) lateral points of intersection of its "planes of sharpness" will automatically & irrevocably cause deflection away from that dulled edge. Say from an offset impact to a nail, stone, abrasive grit etc.
The "good" side still cuts efficiently, the dulled side less so, which deflects.
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dd
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Post by dd on Apr 5, 2020 9:55:50 GMT -5
Blade was new and sharp, so that was not the problem. To avoid pushing the saw to much I made a guiderail. With no luck. Then I did a further check of the base and it was indeed not completely flat. There was a slight bump, which also explains why the blade was not square to the base. I flattened the middle of the base with sandpaper and now it seems to be good. A couple of test cuts are square. Finally:) I thought these high end saws would be a little more accurate in production. For example I also noticed that the parallel guide is way of square (4mm on the length). That's a lot in my opinion. ( image:parallelfence) Or am I exaggerating?
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Post by kraftt on Apr 5, 2020 13:30:00 GMT -5
Can the plastic base plate be removed / separated from the metal base casting? If so I would look under it / between them to see if debris was trapped during assembly thereby deforming plastic (?)
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Post by aas on Apr 5, 2020 17:49:17 GMT -5
I thought these high end saws would be a little more accurate in production. For example I also noticed that the parallel guide is way of square (4mm on the length). That's a lot in my opinion. ( image:parallelfence) Or am I exaggerating? Yes should be well put together - seems weird to me.
I'll try to check my parallel guide - never used it.
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dd
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Post by dd on Apr 7, 2020 2:44:06 GMT -5
Can the plastic base plate be removed / separated from the metal base casting? If so I would look under it / between them to see if debris was trapped during assembly thereby deforming plastic (?) I tried to remove the plastic plate, but it seemed to be glued. Anyhow I didn't want to force it and break it. If anyone could check the squareness of their parallel guide, that would be very helpful. Thanks.
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Post by aas on Apr 10, 2020 11:45:44 GMT -5
If anyone could check the squareness of their parallel guide, that would be very helpful. Thanks. I checked mine today - way off square... anyone else can check theirs?
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rob2
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Post by rob2 on Apr 10, 2020 15:45:20 GMT -5
If anyone could check the squareness of their parallel guide, that would be very helpful. Thanks. I checked mine today - way off square... anyone else can check theirs? Off by about 3mm over the length. When inserted into the saw the metal bar is not perpendicular to machined side of the base, but close, less than 1mm. Keep in mind that outer edge of parallel guide (plastic part) is not very even. Better set it on guide rail and check whether the steel bar is square to the rail.
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dd
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Post by dd on Apr 12, 2020 11:36:10 GMT -5
I borrowed a Bosch rail from a friend (this is the exact same rail as Mafell except for the branding). It is still not square. So we could state that the parallel guide is not parallel and by definition not a parallel guide. I find this rather disappointing. I had hoped Mafell would be more accurate.
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Post by matchesder on Apr 13, 2020 5:45:31 GMT -5
One could trim and shim the plastic where the metal bar is resting on. There is very little play but the screws define the position. If shimmed, the position will be forced to the side, correcting for angle errors.
But for this kind of precision, one should also remachine the face of the fence since this is not perfectly straight but has slight curves to it.
Please keep in mind, it is a plastic part, a fence for a jidsaw, not a T-Square.
Yes, I would be happyer if it was very square, but I'm not surprised that it is not and therefore, not really disappointed.
I'm saying this as someone who is often overcritical when it comes to prcision.
As for the rattle: this would be the moving parts from the "gearbox". I could check it also on a Festool.
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Post by aas on Apr 13, 2020 12:38:14 GMT -5
I borrowed a Bosch rail from a friend (this is the exact same rail as Mafell except for the branding). It is still not square. So we could state that the parallel guide is not parallel and by definition not a parallel guide. I find this rather disappointing. I had hoped Mafell would be more accurate. I had a look at this today for you - I agree it is disappointing. Have you tried cutting using the rail guide or as a parallel guide?
From looking at mine, if the rail is to the left of the saw, rail back to front as intended, with the slight slop between the adapter and the rail, it almost brings the saw parallel - there remains very slight toe in - cuts are good though.
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dd
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Post by dd on Apr 15, 2020 10:56:34 GMT -5
The cut is indeed fine, but I do think that the fact that it is not parallel puts extra stress on the blade. Maybe not so with the cunex blade but with a blade that is not tapered.
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Post by aas on Apr 15, 2020 15:10:00 GMT -5
I've never liked parallel or rail guides for jigsaws, they always seem to pull the blade away from the cut line. Maybe this is Mafells solution - because mine is definitely not square, but works as it should.
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Post by lincoln on Apr 15, 2020 16:24:00 GMT -5
Mine is the same - clearly made this way deliberately, when you have a close look at the connection between the bar and the guide. Even the cut-out in the systainer insert is out of square. Cuts fine, so no problem and no need to be disappointed.
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rob2
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Post by rob2 on Jun 14, 2020 3:10:37 GMT -5
Mine is the same - clearly made this way deliberately, when you have a close look at the connection between the bar and the guide. Even the cut-out in the systainer insert is out of square. Cuts fine, so no problem and no need to be disappointed. Except if you bring the bar to the other side of the saw or flip it to use red edge guide it will be skewed in the other direction. Not to mention using machined edges of the base against a straight edge. Those edges are parallel. So, clearly it was not made deliberately. There is no hidden sense in every manufacturing error.
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