Just a few facts about the tool and guide jig. My stuff is a little older and badged Hoffman but I think it's probably the same otherwise. Mine didn't come with instructions when I bought it used. I found a manual online but it is pretty useless.
The critical number to remember for the tool is 65mm. That's the distance between the centers of the drills and the outside edge of the guide jig. The guide jig is close to exactly 64mm wide but I can't figure out how to make use of this dimension. If you want to drill a line of holes 37mm from the front edge of a panel, the edge of the guide jig would be placed 102mm in from the edge (65+37).
The tool can drill two (or even 3) rows of parallel holes on 32mm centers without repositioning the jig. Why you would want to do this I can't figure, but it's easy to do. If you set the adjustable fence to 0 height you can flip the tool around and drill your second line of holes at 97mm from the edge of the guide jig (65+32). The fence can be moved out 32mm and a third row can be drilled at 129mm.
I have not been able to figure out a sensible and quick way to position the guide jig for drilling the back row of a base cabinet on perfect 32mm centers for drawer hardware. Perhaps there is something I am overlooking.
Post by Tom Gensmer on Nov 9, 2017 16:23:33 GMT -5
I regularly use the guide templates (I have the short and the long) for drilling rows of holes, as well for indexing dowels on longer runs on large panels.
One trick I learned is to make plywood cleats to set the distance of the template from the front edge of the work piece. So, for my mobile Systainer modules, I have one cleat that indexes the template for the front row of holes, and a second cleat that indexes for the back row of holes. I simply slide the cleat against the front edge of the work, slide the template again the cleat, then tighten. Remove cleat, then start drilling holes.
I have another set of cleats I use for indexing the template for properly aligning dowel holes on larger panels. One cleat for dowels drilled in the face of the material, a different cleat for dowels drilled in the edge of materials.
I LOVE the ability to infinitely adjust the template. I drill all of the 5mm holes on my Systainer modules in 16mm increments. So, I drill everything at the standard setting, adjust the stop by 16mm, then drill everything again. This allows me to double the density of holes and potentially fitting extra shelves in a given cabinet.
Last Edit: Nov 9, 2017 16:24:37 GMT -5 by Tom Gensmer: Poor spelling and grammar
This saves me the trouble of coming up with the same solution. I will definitely copy this. Have me some shelves to build and I have been putting it off for a few weeks so this will come in handy for sure.
abdon: I stand corrected , the angle fence is only attaches with F -Tracks , what confused me was , that the Timberwolf site mentioned it will work with the NFU machine, yes it will work but only I guess when you use the Ftrack , with other tracks Like the KSS L.
Nov 28, 2020 22:52:01 GMT -5
glynnco: Did you order from GereedschapPro? I see them as in stock but I'm located in the US and am not sure if they ship here. I sent them an email asking about shipping but it was returned undeliverable...
Dec 10, 2020 7:37:40 GMT -5
jonathan: I've purchased a lot of stuff from our neighbours @ GereedschapPro.nl As far as I know they are one of the larger Mafell dealers in the EU. I can recommend them, they usually respond quickly.
Dec 11, 2020 13:58:36 GMT -5
NFU 50 Transportation?: Hi Guys, is there some Systainer for the NFU 50?
Dec 11, 2020 14:30:12 GMT -5
frezik24: Hello everyone
Dec 13, 2020 9:20:00 GMT -5
lasse: Thanks for the tip! I have own a mafell rail which is 160 cm and one that is 80 cm. Will it work just as well or will I need to buy rail that is 110 cm?
Mar 18, 2021 15:35:15 GMT -5