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Post by aas on Mar 10, 2019 15:29:09 GMT -5
I need a decent router table setup, I'm thinking that using the Erika as a base is a good idea. I've read all the posts on here going back several years, still no wiser.
My experience tells me it is best to have a router dedicated to the table as taking it in and out can quickly get tiring... I have a Triton 2400w (along with the whole TWX7 table and router table setup)... the router is OK in table mode (absolutely horrible in handheld mode!), 2400w is powerful enough for what I need, the over table adjust is handy. The TWX7 table is a good work site table, but not a good router table. The router table kit is OK, the base is nicely finished and flat, the fence is better than many, but I don't like it.
I also have an Elu 177E (Swiss made) - beautiful router, and I love it!.. I also have a table mount and fence for it, along with the undermount adjuster, but at 1850w, probably not enough power, and it remains one of my favourites to use in handheld mode, so putting it in the table would be a shame.
I will be getting the Mafell LO65, I also have the router table extension for the Erika, but I have read this deflects with the weight of the '65, and I don't like the look of the Mafell router fence, certainly not for the money!
I also have the OF2200 which is a beast, but fantastic in handheld mode, so a waste to go into a table.
I'm sure with all of that I should be able to set something up that works... but I'm not liking the Mafell micro rip fence, and I like the look of the Incra LS positioner.
So I already have the Mafell router table to mount the LS too, I could simply make a support that takes the Triton table insert and router to go the other side of the Erika.... I'd want it the other way around though. I like my table saw rip guide to the left of the blade, so the router could go to the right, and then I could remove it when I need the slider. Otherwise I put the router to the left of the saw, and put the LS to the left of the router, that way the slider can stay on.
So a few questions, I am I missing anything with what I want to do?.. would the router between the Erika and the LS be difficult to use?
And for anyone with the LS - do I need the 17" or 25" (I'll need metric equivalents), and I just need to add the Wonderfence?.. is that all?
Thanks in advance :-)
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Post by naildrivingman on Mar 11, 2019 5:33:46 GMT -5
I have long considered using the router extension on my Erika for light edge treatments (roundover and chamfer) only. I don’t feel that I could adequately create a router table that would be stable enough to perform much more than light edge treatments and portable enough to accommodate my work requirements. If my Erika were permanently set up in a shop, I might feel differently.
I have not executed my plan yet. We’re I to do it, I would probably use a Bosch 1617 motor, a Bosch top side lift and possibly reinforce the table with a plate.
If it were me, I would encourage you to look at a dedicated table and a Porter Cable 7518 motor.
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Post by aas on Mar 11, 2019 7:38:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply. We don't have Porter Cable in France. The idea of looking at putting it on the Erika was to use one Incra LS positioner that can be used for routing and for sawing. If it's to have a dedicated table, I have the Triton table and router already - I would just need to add a decent fence. Failing that, I have always made my router tables before, I could do the same again. But I think the LS will add a sorely missed accurate rip guide to the Erika and the Wonderfence connected to this will give accuracy and jointing options to my router setup. A couple of extension legs can be added if need be for stability.
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Post by bicycleclip on Mar 13, 2019 20:49:11 GMT -5
>I will be getting the Mafell LO65, I also have the router table extension for the Erika, but I have read this deflects with the weight of the '65<
You know I read the same comment about the Mafell router extension table deflection and have repeated it a few times on this forum. In fact I’ve only recently plucked up the courage to test it by leaving the router, an LO65 in the table for an extended period. Having checked it after a few weeks with a dial indicator (a One-Way Multigauge) and a visually with a straightedge I can’t detect any deflection. I’ll post back here if that changes.
I’ve been eyeing the LS set-up too and I thiink it would work very well for accuracy and moving between easily ripping. The disadvantage that I see is that there can only be half the width of an extension table (about 10cm) front of the router cutter, which doesn’t give enough support to wide items or table for them to reference from. This simply doesn’t work for me.
However if you are making your own insertable table extension you can adjust this. You can also install a non-plunge router with a router lift cage under a DIY table as well, which resolves the issue I’d have with having a really accurate fence but a relatively clumsy router depth adjustment.
I have the Mafell router fence and it’s not that easy to adjust, which is my main criticism of it. Also you if you install the router so it faces outwards as it appears in most photographs then to remove the router fence because you have to remove the whole extension. This makes swapping between routing and cutting quiite slow at times. And, the router fences dust collection port takes up a lot of space. Having said that I like having it. I’ve got two Erika extension tables and often place them together for wide items being routed.
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Post by aas on Mar 14, 2019 2:12:50 GMT -5
Also you if you install the router so it faces outwards as it appears in most photographs then to remove the router fence because you have to remove the whole extension. Thanks.. do you have the router on the left or the right of the saw?
I've been looking at non-plunge routers and lifts too, there is so little choice in Europe. (230v)
I'm starting to lean towards putting an LS positioner on the Erika as a rip fence, and making a router table with a reinforced solid surface top, Incra wonder fence, and a lift - I could put the triton in for now. I think that sometimes the workflow will be disrupted witching between saw and router if it is using the same LS positioner, and I'm not sure what it adds to the router. I won't be doing dovetails etc. on the router table, so the benefits of the LS in addition to the wonder fence are limited, but it will definitely add something to the Erika with it's inaccurate rip fence.
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Post by bicycleclip on Mar 14, 2019 3:41:59 GMT -5
I always prefer to have the router table extension on the right of my saw, it’s feels natural to me there and that’s more important than having a rip fence on the right. I’m european too (although my country, UK is trying to change that). That’s why a light switch went off when I read how you intended to do the same with the Incra LS. Great idea. But with an Erika 85, the extension bars will only span the table top and two extension tables. If you want a wide surface in front of your router, then perhaps you’ll need longer extension bars or a self supporting extension. This could limit the accuracy of the LS fence relative to the extension unless you managed to make the extension within tight tolerances (<.0.5mm).
Although the Mafell router fence is fiddly to adjust (actually only the offset function is difficult, the rest is easy) the thing I like about it is that it’s always absolutely square and accurate, regardless. The underside has reinforcement bars and doesn’t really allow you to install a router lift, but I just use my knee (I put my foot on a block of wood as a step underneath the table and push my knee up aginst the upside down router. It works). If you’ve got the room and money I’d opt for a standalone router table and put the most powerful fixed base router you can find in there. Fixed base because plunge routers don’t work with router lifts. There’s a UK company called woodworkersworkshop.co.uk that sells a lot of this stuff, including the Incra fence.
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Post by aas on Mar 15, 2019 2:31:06 GMT -5
Thanks, I have a page open from woodworkersworkshop already. I've been looking at their motor (and lifts), it's a no-name china special... I'm not sure I gain anything over the Triton I already have, which is designed to be inverted in a table.
I can easily make a router table, I have solid surface for the top, an NVR switch knocking about and a 2400w Triton router - I just need to add a fence and I'm done. Maybe I should add a router plate for the Triton so I can change it to a motor and lift at a later date if I want too...
Anyone used an Incra Cleansweep dust box?.. how does it work for a router or motor being stuck inside a box?.. no over heating issues?
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