But it is the floor that is giving me some trouble. if it is set into/only concrete then it needs a permit, so I really want it semi portable and therefore could disassembled, and not too heavy. A bunch of 2x4 beams covered with ply seems not quite right. And bolted to the 4 corner bricks would just pull them up in the occasional wind... but we are not in a cyclone area.
And wisdom or ideas? or just cast some footings in and bolt posts to them?
Post by huntsgemein on Oct 17, 2018 5:10:45 GMT -5
How about using CCA or safer equivalent landscaping sleepers from Bunnings as bearers @ 900 (actually 833mm) centers, jacked up & through-bolted to gal steel stirrups @ or near each end. The stirrups would need to be semi-immersed in barrow-mixed concrete pads, or perhaps dynabolted to large, heavy concrete pavers. The massive pine bearers should dampen most of the "bounce".
You'd need 14 stirrups, seven 3000 x 200 x 75mm tanalith sleepers, & eight 5000 x 100 x 45mm joists for your substructure: a sufficient platform on which to build a shed but still stay within temp shed regs. Stud walls on top of a structural ply floor would probably be cheapest. The insulative layer of air below, & the steel stirrup stems should help to keep things cool & protect against radiant heat & white ants too. If you incorporate another insulative air layer above (a double roof, or waterproof "umbrella" it should help with summer cooling too. That's what I've seen with contemporary builds in the Territory to reduce summer heat: a waterproof outer extending beyond the building's footprint, & a lightweight inner roof with a gap between.
Don't use polycarb, laserlite roofing etc. You'll turn it into a solar oven when the sun is at its midday midsummer (hottest) zenith. Keeping the sun off & away from your structure will combat insolation & heat input. A nice big tree (deciduous?) on the Northern side will help too. A couple of smaller windows on opposite sides, or another single larger one on the opposite wall to the door will provide welcome crossflow ventilation if aligned to the prevailing summer breezes. Opposed fixed vents just under the ridge (just like an old American barn) should release any accumulated hot air pooling under the ridge. You can get cheap dunny vents from Bunnings that might work.
A ridged roof (the taller the better) will always be cooler than skillion styles in your climate. If security & lighting are issues in your neighbourhood, then an incorporated clerestorey (aligned to the east or south only) will provide that lovely low-key wash of studio-type light beloved by artists without any harsh direct rays. Incorporating an opening pane or two in the clerestorey would allow a cooling thermosiphon of fresh air. Plus there's always going to be some lovely inexpensive extra storage space among the rafters & ties in a ridged roof!
To assist in council compliance, use a 15A Caravan cord taped & Zip-tied to a catenary wire for power supply. When plugged unto a convenient household outlet & into a weatherproof Caravan Inlet on the upper shed wall, it completes the "temporary" shed illusion. Otherwise you'd have to bury the supply cable underground & in conduit at the statutory prescribed depth, plus enlist a sparkie's sevices to comply with connection protocols.
I went by the steel shop and looked at some steel that gets casted into concrete. So I am thinking of just using the brick floor. And bolting the 4 corners down...
I was still thinking of a Danpalon roof that is skillion and the high end pointed north, with the whole north wall being sliding or accordian doors... so it would Be like a humpy when then doors are open.
Then for power a neutrix power cord fitting on the outside and an extension cord. Maybe a string of LEDs of I want to go out there at night. (i already have those for the 4x4)
Basically if it is too hot I will not be in it, but rain, dust and thieves would be slowed up. and the patio and driveway cannot be locked, and garage gets a bit crowded.
Looking at augers for shade pole footings etc. Likely I will put in a steel footing at each corner to bolt the corners down to, and put shade sail footings in other areas of the backyard.
Then I'll bolt the corners to the footing and use the bricks as the floor. I may remove the course of bricks at the front and pot in a concrete 200mm-5000 section and have tracks in it for doors to run in. The runners to hold doors with the danpalon in this style... So more secure than rice paper to keep thieves and ninjas out. With no 'clear section' like below. 6 door will be 3 per side - so 2 slide behind the end door, if the second one slides behind the fist, and the third door behind the second one.
glynnco: Did you order from GereedschapPro? I see them as in stock but I'm located in the US and am not sure if they ship here. I sent them an email asking about shipping but it was returned undeliverable...
Dec 10, 2020 7:37:40 GMT -5
jonathan: I've purchased a lot of stuff from our neighbours @ GereedschapPro.nl As far as I know they are one of the larger Mafell dealers in the EU. I can recommend them, they usually respond quickly.
Dec 11, 2020 13:58:36 GMT -5
NFU 50 Transportation?: Hi Guys, is there some Systainer for the NFU 50?
Dec 11, 2020 14:30:12 GMT -5
frezik24: Hello everyone
Dec 13, 2020 9:20:00 GMT -5
lasse: Thanks for the tip! I have own a mafell rail which is 160 cm and one that is 80 cm. Will it work just as well or will I need to buy rail that is 110 cm?
Mar 18, 2021 15:35:15 GMT -5
Alberto: Hola. ¿Cómo estás? Soy Alberto del Departamento de Prensa. Muchas gracias por atenderme.ómo podemos hacer que tu empresa aparezca en más de 50 periódicos digitales como noticia (No será un anuncio) por una única cuota al mes sin permanencia. Las noticias n
Jul 22, 2022 10:29:53 GMT -5