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Post by holmz on Sept 28, 2018 5:05:24 GMT -5
I think Jonathan is talking about the stamped piece that holds the riving knife down below... I too have issues with the riving knife, I've bent it to be straight when the blade is up, but as the blade descends, i.e. for a non-through cut at 10mm, the riving knife is a couple of mm out. Not sure what causes it to move as the blade goes down I suspect that is because it is bent like a banana... (That is why I suggested hitting with a hammer down low, so it is straight but angled differently)
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Post by aas on Sept 28, 2018 7:20:41 GMT -5
Nope, I've got mine pretty straight, it's lined up nicely with the blade, it's just the last 15mm as the blade winds down it pulls the riving knife over to the left a couple of mm. Whatever is doing it is the fixing underneath the saw, and I haven't taken it apart to see the root cause.
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Post by jonathan on Sept 28, 2018 7:43:43 GMT -5
I think this is the problem: The piece of sheet metal to which the riving knife is attached to, is only attached to the arbor and the little support arm at the bottom of the dust shroud cover. And it has flex in it.
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Post by kraftt on Sept 28, 2018 8:23:14 GMT -5
would rounding off the edge of the knife (photo looks like it has 90º edges) help material deflect knife from catching, in between major adjustments ? Or is it too rigidly supported to make that viable.
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Post by aas on Sept 29, 2018 7:14:15 GMT -5
I had an Elu contractor saw for about 20 years, the riving knife was tapered almost to a point with a very shallow angle bevel, it never got caught on the material being cut. It was also the same height as the blade, the blade guard attached behind so could be removed for non-through cuts. I prefer the Mafell set up of the lift-up / push-down riving knife, but it's not a 'finished' product.
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Post by mikkomononen on Oct 1, 2018 14:06:20 GMT -5
would rounding off the edge of the knife (photo looks like it has 90º edges) help material deflect knife from catching, in between major adjustments ? Or is it too rigidly supported to make that viable. There's little rounding on the left side of the riving knife, right side is sharp. Looks like the left side was on top when the piece was stamped. Once time permits, I try to take off the knife and add some rounding to it. I think it's a good idea.
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Post by naildrivingman on Oct 6, 2018 6:20:12 GMT -5
I think Jonathan is talking about the stamped piece that holds the riving knife down below... I too have issues with the riving knife, I've bent it to be straight when the blade is up, but as the blade descends, i.e. for a non-through cut at 10mm, the riving knife is a couple of mm out. Not sure what causes it to move as the blade goes down. My understanding is the riving knife is offset to the right, because the saw is designed to cut on the left side of the blade. I don’t know for a fact, but in my research, it seems that blade left cutting is more predominant in Europe. Since this saw bevels to the right, the standard procedure is to keep the offcut of the bevel on the short angle side of the bevel (right). My 75 riving knife is also offset to the right. Thankfully mine is not as significant as the OP’s deflection. Occasionally, mine will hang up if I have the blade too high for the stock being cut. I have minimized hang up by positioning the blade so that the lowest point of the gullet is just above the stock. i have not tried to move the riving knife, nor do I think I will.
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Post by aas on Oct 6, 2018 7:07:14 GMT -5
If the saw is designed to cut on the left side of the blade, why does the micro adjust fence sit on the right hand side?... or am I not understanding what you are saying?
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Post by naildrivingman on Oct 6, 2018 12:20:37 GMT -5
If the saw is designed to cut on the left side of the blade, why does the micro adjust fence sit on the right hand side?... or am I not understanding what you are saying? I don’t know the answer to your question. I am puzzled as to why Mafell would sell a fence that can only be positioned on the side of the blade that I consider to be the offhand side. To me, a fence should be universal (most saws I’ve worked with have had universal fences). I’m not stating that my way is the correct way, but I’ve used table saws for over 35 years and I can’t remember anyone endorsing the practice of cutting a bevel on the same side as the blade tilts. That’s not to say that I have never done it, but if I do, I make absolutely sure that the board is as straight as possible. If the board is crooked, there is a very good possibility that it will bind and become a belly-button missile. This has happened to me. It is not pleasant. When I cut bevels on my 75, I will almost always use the MFA positioned on the left side of the blade. When I rip, I use the micro-fence on the right side of the blade. I have accepted this as what I need to do.
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Post by aas on Oct 6, 2018 12:41:20 GMT -5
It's never crossed my mind, I've always ripped to the right of the blade, including for bevels... obviously have to take care doing this.
I've tried ripping to the left on the Erika as the MFA works well for me on that side, but I don't like it, main reason I got the micro adjust fence, so I could have a nice accurate rip fence to the right - except it's not accurate!
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Post by naildrivingman on Oct 6, 2018 21:35:46 GMT -5
It's never crossed my mind, I've always ripped to the right of the blade, including for bevels... obviously have to take care doing this. I've tried ripping to the left on the Erika as the MFA works well for me on that side, but I don't like it, main reason I got the micro adjust fence, so I could have a nice accurate rip fence to the right - except it's not accurate! As I indicated earlier, it seems to me from experience that non US saws typically bevel to the right. There are a few models of Delta Unisaws that bevel right and they are sold in the US. Honestly I don’t know why bevel direction is not standard one way or the other. The Unisaws have universal fences, so one can rip right or left, but bevel on left. The reason one should avoid right bevel with fence on right (and vice versa) is that the work piece can bind under the blade and have no place to go but straight back at the user. As I indicated, I have violated this rule, generally because my arrogance and laziness can get the best of me. This is not good. Physics needs to be respected and sometimes my haste leads to chance taking. As I understand it, the Erika is designed to be used on the left side of the blade. I don’t know for a fact, but I wonder if the rip fence wasn’t created with the US user in mind (the MFA with fence extension and clamp is supposed to be the rip fence from my understanding). I, too, am less than satisfied with the cast iron rip fence, but I have made it work for me. I’m more comfortable ripping on the right side of the blade and I rarely bevel material. When I do, I set up the MFA (unless I have an arrogant lazy moment)...
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Post by aas on Oct 7, 2018 0:58:51 GMT -5
I don’t know for a fact, but I wonder if the rip fence wasn’t created with the US user in mind I'd be surprised if anything Mafell make was created with the US market in mind..!
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Post by holmz on Oct 7, 2018 3:17:18 GMT -5
I'd be surprised if anything Mafell make was created with the US market in mind..! Maybe the colour...
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Post by naildrivingman on Oct 7, 2018 7:04:25 GMT -5
I'd be surprised if anything Mafell make was created with the US market in mind..! Maybe the colour... In hindsight, I would have to agree. Based on what I see on this forum and others, the popularity of Mafell in the US seems to be pretty low. Still and all, I am generally pleased with the saw. The dust collection is far better than any other portable saws I’ve ever used. For my needs, I’ve managed to overcome some of the shortcomings that the saw has.
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Post by holmz on Oct 8, 2018 2:56:12 GMT -5
You're probably right... People don't usually buy saws based upon the colour matching their political affiliation.
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