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Post by aas on Jul 8, 2020 7:59:32 GMT -5
I don't think the 18v batteries have the best seating or locking system - I've still got a few, mainly for the Mafell tools - sometimes it's a fight to get them off. The Metabo bandsaw seems to have a dodgy connection, sometimes it works sometimes not, need to remove and re-fit the battery. The bandsaw is drawing lots of metal debris into the housing with both the blade and the fan. I've made a 'Swag' style stand for mine, the battery is on top, the dust falls down to be collected underneath - and it's new, so I doubt there's any dust in there.
Been thinking, no problems with my mains gear from Metabo, just cordless. My problem is being 'tight' for unimportant tools - as you see from my sig, I have lots of Mafell, I also have lots of Festool - and many other decent tools, but for everyday tools, I've always thought 'that'll do'... I'm changing bit by bit, Fein for the grinder and multitool, etc., I probably should have got the Milwaukee bandsaw - but it's 3 times the price of the Metabo - so being tight, I got the Metabo!.. it works, but it's basic.
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Post by yetihunter on Jul 8, 2020 11:43:06 GMT -5
Here here. As you can imagine, on my side of the pond, Metabo is priced like a luxury item especially on their mostly awful quality cordless products. Whereas Milwaukee, Makita and Dewalt are a bargain. Makita put out a Japanese made bandsaw and they have some smaller ones coming. Honestly though, I really mover over to using a metal cutting cord saw in a big way. I have a Bosch that suits me fine, and I recently picked up the Makita. I moved over to Makita for “everything same platform” because a.) I had to and b.) Bosch can’t deliver on it’s promises and Metabo can’t deliver quality tools in their cordless line (exceptions being if it’s made by Steinel, Collomix or it’s a drill or rotary hammer...and I’m not sure my rotary hammer from them will last). Alas, everybody makes a crappy multi master except fein, so I’ve got the Vecturo kit, always. Nobody else makes a kss40, so that’s there. And the Hitachi brad nailer and pinner. I also vastly prefer Bosch to Makita in the cordless SDS, so that’s in there. It’s a party.
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Post by aas on Jul 8, 2020 23:40:18 GMT -5
I have no cordless Bosch - great SDS machines, but I don't need a new battery platform for one tool - almost went with the Bosch for an X-lock grinder, chose the Fein instead. If I were to change my Makita SDS - I don't need to, it's excellent -, I'd probably go with the Fein. Only thing I do need is a percussion drill, but I should probably go 230v and not cordless, the Metabo looks decent - I have the new Metabo 12v percussion drill - non brushless, but I picked it up with 2x 4,0ah lihd batts, case and charger for 90€. I just had to drill about 25 holes in some very hard wall tiles, tried on an offcut and the SDS was too agressive, tried all types of glass and tile drills - despite constant cooling I wrecked 8 drill bits - and many more just wouldn't work. The Metabo 12v managed it with some near 30 year old 'unbreakable' universal drill bits I got from a trade show in 1991... they don't make like they used to! I say managed it, about 10 minutes per hole, 25 holes, the drill got so hot I was expecting smoke!..
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Post by aas on Jul 9, 2020 0:09:52 GMT -5
... almost related - I need a decent mitre saw, and Metabo 'almost' gets it right with two of their offerings, the KGS Xact Sym (twin lasers and that great sym fence), and the KGS 254 i Plus (induction motor) - but it's Metabo and I worry about quailty, so they're off the shopping list. Bosch glide? - too heavy Dewalt? - not into Dewalt at all Kapex KS60? - no lasers, LED shadow line instead Kapex KS120 - yep, ticks all the boxes - I'll get one of them - no?... out of stock. Seriously, the 2 month lockdown of the Festool factory has emptied out the supply chain, no new Kapex KS120 here until Sept or Oct, so those that do have them are seriously bumping prices - up to list price and sometimes over - inflation is with us folks!
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Post by hecon5 on Jul 9, 2020 9:52:07 GMT -5
I know you say you don't want DW, but I have the DWS780, and while heavier than some and having atrocious dust collection, it's a beast and cuts accurately and almost anything I've thrown at it. I don't own a table saw, and I've used it to rip shorter pieces or wide stock with a jig without issue, honestly. The stand you can get with it sets up super quick and has outriggers for cutting long stock; these double as stops to do (surprisingly accurate) repeat cuts. I've also had zero issues with it staying square on any of the axis even after banging it around.
The LED shadow line, compared to a laser in my opinion, is actually better (for my use cases); requires zero re-calibration for different blades, though it does require you to bring the blade down a titch to verify. Plus, it doubles as a work light.
It does have a caveat in that the spring balance was set a bit light (presumably to make plunging easier), and can cause the blade to jerk down with the start torque if you're not paying attention; this may apply to other saws, but with the 12" blade, belt, and motor placement it's something to know about. Definitely surprised me more than once :/
That said, if it's a one-2 day job where accuracy isn't paramount, I'd rather use my KSS60cc, less setup, better dust collection, and fits on top of whatever. When I finally get around to replacing the splinter guard on the KSS, and accuracy improves, I may consider ditching the Miter saw, though.
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Post by aas on Jul 9, 2020 11:43:28 GMT -5
I know people rave about the Dewalt mitre saws, but they're basic to me... and I want decent dust collection. I guess I need to find a Festool KS60 to try the shadow line out, but not easy here in the mountains. I've read of a few who weren't happy with the saw overall, also that the shadow line is invisible with even moderate sunlight.
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Post by hecon5 on Jul 9, 2020 12:26:10 GMT -5
I wouldn't 'rave' about mine, but it's dang good for what I paid for it. It also has terrible dust collection (something at the time I got it wasn't as high on my radar) and is heavy (truth be told, I haven't picked up many others to compare, so take that with a grain of salt), so it's not without some detractors. But it cuts well and I'm not displeased with the purchase. I would not consider using it inside any even semi-finished space because of the dust; it's definitely an outside / work area with tarps / dedicated saw area with central shop dust collection & hood saw.
The light on the DW is stupid bright; I actually used it yesterday outside in the sun and was able to fairly reasonably see the line. I tripped the breaker (oops!) and thought it was arc-flash because it blinked out, honestly.
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Post by aas on Jul 9, 2020 13:32:17 GMT -5
I've still got a load of old Elu tools from the 90's - when Dewalt bought them out, they started selling the 'same' tools for half price... no way the quality stayed at the same level. Put me off Dewalt, not seen much that interests me; add to that, I had a beautiful kitchen to install, and the guys panelling the ceilings in old brushed wood were using a Dewalt mitre saw - dust extraction = non-existent, I left the site and wouldn't come back until they'd finished. I don't breath in my own mess, not breathing in someone elses...
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Post by yetihunter on Jul 11, 2020 0:03:41 GMT -5
We had a lot of issues with the earlier Dewalts back when I was a laborer. I haven’t had any issues with some of the recent machines I’ve gotten from them. I owned some Black and Decker distributed Elu (secondhand, it was before my time) and the designs Dewalt still sells are definitely a few notches below. I downgraded from a Kapex to a monstrous Dewalt Home Depot discount SCMS and, I can’t lie, while not as sexy, the damn thing is dead nuts and it came that way out of the box. I upgraded to the shadow line option via replacement parts and some crimps and for me it’s no better or worse than lasers. Dust collection has been way better than I expected it would have.
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Post by AJW on Jul 27, 2020 20:35:27 GMT -5
Multitool MT18 - sticking switch, almost impossible to turn on and off, needs a pull down with both thumbs.
Grinder 125mm (forgotten the model) - switch turns off on it's own, repeatedly; swivel battery base is so loose it vibrates and has had to be taped up Circular saw KS18LTX57 - 5m cut of 27mm timber and it's getting hot, 10m it's smelling, 15m it's smoking and won't turn, needs to be left for an hour to start cutting again; slop in the gearbox shaft so the blade moves in and out, standard blade is pathetic.
Mitre saw KS18LTX216 - batteries almost impossible to get on and off now, need to push in the battery release button to be able to slide a battery in. Not a lot of use, in as new condition. Mini sabre saw 10,8v - batteries fall out with the vibration unless some rubber is forced into the battery catch to stiffen it up. (vertical cuts with batteries facing down).
Powermaxx SB - used maybe 10 times, as new, smells of burning and loses power when tightening a smallish screw. 10,8v lamp and torch - won't stand up on their own without the large 4,2 or 5,2 ah batteries, which are ridiculously expensive. LED projector and tripod - very big frame, not a clear smooth light, tripod fiddly. A10M (OK it's Mafell, but Metabo based) switch replaced as it stopped working. LiHD batteries - 3,1ah and 5,5ah seem to drain very fast - less than 2 years old - charge very slowly.
The good stuff... Drill - BS18LTX Quick Impulse - very nice drill Impact wrench - SSD400 - compact and powerful BS Powermaxx - basic drill with no problems, but nothing special Tried contacting Metabo about the shaft slop on the '57 - no reply... several of these tools need warranty work. In the meantime, I will have to buy replacement tools to use...
Out of interest you mention sticking some rubber in to a latch on a Sabre saw to keep the battery in. Can you elaborate a bit more on how you did that? I have a similar issue with two of my Metabo tools, the worst one is a multi tool which only occasionally works now, battery very loose and the other is my impact driver, though with that I can reseat the battery and it works. But that multi tool. Grrr. Seems like vibration is a big issue with these tools. I managed to find out the problem with my multitool and it wasn't the battery afterall. What it is is on the speed control module there is a power cutout button. I am not sure what drives the button or indeed its purpose as the mechanics that drive it disappears into the top end of the tool. But when pressed in the tool works when released the tool stops. I had thought it connected to the on/off switch but after my 'fix' below I am not so sure. In my case what seems to have happened is the control module has overheated so much that it has melted the retaining tabs that keep it firmly in place. As a result contact with the cutout button is intermittent. Whilst not ideal the only way I could get the tool to work was to tape the button up. With it taped up and the on/off switch set to on it works, turn the switch off the tool stops. Other than replace the module and replace the housing there doesn't seem to be any other way to repair the tool. And I would imagine the cost to do that would be more than the cost of a new unit.
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Post by aas on Jul 28, 2020 0:09:57 GMT -5
The Metabo multitool is pretty robust, shame about these niggling problems that tarnish the brand.
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Post by aas on Jul 28, 2020 0:18:51 GMT -5
The LED shadow line, compared to a laser in my opinion, is actually better (for my use cases); requires zero re-calibration for different blades, though it does require you to bring the blade down a titch to verify. Plus, it doubles as a work light. I ended up getting a new Kapex 60 for not a lot, first time with a shadow line - it's OK, you can even see the shadow of the teeth. The saw is very nice, not too heavy, accuracy spot on out of the box. If you try, you can move the head left to right by 0,5mm when fully forward, but the vertical handle keeps the pressure over the blade, so unlikely to be an issue in day to day use.
I know a lot of users don't like the vertical handle - to be honest I would prefer a handle at 45 degrees, it feels more natural to me - so either I'm slightly twisting to vertical, or slightly twisting to horizontal - I prefer the fine control of vertical.
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