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Post by yetihunter on Apr 18, 2018 1:06:16 GMT -5
We know what saws work on what rails, but some of us also know that, regardless of blade kerf and plate thickness, some of these saws don't line up where the splinter strip is concerned. I've lost track of that info and was hoping others could chime in here. Allegedly my KSS 40 won't mess up the splinterstrip that my MT55 calls home (unless I remembered that wrong). What else plays nice? KSS 50? KSS 60? KSS 80? Unicorn flavoured cupcakes? Please advise.
Also, I remember noticing that either the cordless KSS 50 or KSS 60 use a thinner kerf blade than the corded model (although both kerf blades are compatible with their respective diameter saws). Oh boy.
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Post by thehandyman on Apr 18, 2018 9:18:37 GMT -5
I also always adjust a new saw to the current splinter strips I have set.
From my experience, all the saws have the set screws in the base to adjust the blade laterally.
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Post by GhostFist on May 1, 2018 11:38:55 GMT -5
The 40 is the unique animal, it will straight cut fine but not on a bevel. The 40/300 are designed to be used with the flex rail, which is much thinner than the standard f rails. Thus throwing off the geometry for beveling
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Post by calidecks on May 14, 2018 20:38:02 GMT -5
I also always adjust a new saw to the current splinter strips I have set. From my experience, all the saws have the set screws in the base to adjust the blade laterally. May I ask where this set screw is? Is it on the MT55cc? Does the arbor actually move laterally? Thanks.
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Post by thehandyman on May 14, 2018 20:43:57 GMT -5
I also always adjust a new saw to the current splinter strips I have set. From my experience, all the saws have the set screws in the base to adjust the blade laterally. May I ask where this set screw is? Is it on the MT55cc? Does the arbor actually move laterally? Thanks. Look on the base plate. Should be screws in front and read, usually into the bevel adjustment area. These allow the the saw and motor to slide laterally on the base plate which moves the blade left/right.
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Post by kraftt on May 14, 2018 22:45:26 GMT -5
There's a buried thread here somewhere where I took one apart (mt55) to test shimming but also messed with blade adjustment.
If I recall I think the easiest way I found to align blade was to remove spring, mount saw on rail, turn it all upside down to look where teeth are just touching splinter guard. Remember if you don't plunge enough the saws blade distance is skewed by it's scoring feature. (If there is a simpler method ,or even a preferred method, it would be good to know.)
Blade choice used for measurement determines if any other blade change will cut into s/g or if none will ever cut right on the edge. I.e. - the mafell blade seems to be one that cuts the closest so if set up for that blade then no other should ever cut as close. Of course, if you set up for a favorite blade that's not mafell, once you go back to the mafell, or similar geometry blade, it's going to trim/reset the guard.
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Post by calidecks on May 14, 2018 23:12:09 GMT -5
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Post by kraftt on May 14, 2018 23:35:15 GMT -5
That's why I posted this on reflectors blade/Tenryu thread, to help clarify: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Still my contention that once s/g is trimmed to mafell 092584 or bosch 2 608 644 136, and you want other blades for critical cuts to cozy up to splinter guard, that it's realistic to buy an extra inner flange or two (Mafell Part #er 203999 EAN4032689150284 ('Flange' inner) or Bosch BSD-2605700250.A0 ('Clamping Flange') and have them 'kissed off' by a machinist to pull blades closer to guard. You would color code these and swap out the stock flange when installing coordinating blade.
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Post by calidecks on May 15, 2018 0:08:44 GMT -5
That's why I posted this on reflectors blade/Tenryu thread, to help clarify: ------------------------------------------------------------------- Still my contention that once s/g is trimmed to mafell 092584 or bosch 2 608 644 136, and you want other blades for critical cuts to cozy up to splinter guard, that it's realistic to buy an extra inner flange or two (Mafell Part #er 203999 EAN4032689150284 ('Flange' inner) or Bosch BSD-2605700250.A0 ('Clamping Flange') and have them 'kissed off' by a machinist to pull blades closer to guard. You would color code these and swap out the stock flange when installing coordinating blade. Nice illustration!
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Post by yetihunter on May 15, 2018 18:54:21 GMT -5
My mind is blown
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