brice
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by brice on Jan 22, 2018 20:40:09 GMT -5
Hi,
ill be ordering some of this asap for my Erika saw. HAs anyone else used this or a similar method?
thanks
Brice
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 23, 2018 1:31:21 GMT -5
No but I might just give it a shot as well
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Post by chippiegary on Jan 23, 2018 13:29:34 GMT -5
Any idea where it can be ordered from in uk ?
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Post by GhostFist on Jan 23, 2018 17:27:59 GMT -5
interesting. how easy/difficult is it to remove I wonder
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Post by naildrivingman on Jan 28, 2018 19:38:12 GMT -5
interesting. how easy/difficult is it to remove I wonder The adhesive grabs the plastic inserts on miter saws pretty well and leaves residue when removed. The residue is easily cleaned off plastic with alcohol. I don’t know how aggressively it will grab the aluminum on Erika. If one is using the pull saw feature of Erika, I don’t know how well this will work because the tape will be split in two (unlike the video where the front and back remain intact). If no pull saw feature is used, this product should work with Erika.
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Post by bicycleclip on Jan 30, 2018 7:00:45 GMT -5
interesting. how easy/difficult is it to remove I wonder The adhesive grabs the plastic inserts on miter saws pretty well and leaves residue when removed. The residue is easily cleaned off plastic with alcohol. I don’t know how aggressively it will grab the aluminum on Erika. If one is using the pull saw feature of Erika, I don’t know how well this will work because the tape will be split in two (unlike the video where the front and back remain intact). If no pull saw feature is used, this product should work with Erika. I just ordered 5 packs on the basis that there is a flat rate post and import to the UK so, in for a penny, in for a pound, since the price per unit is $5 each. I will try it with the sliding table, so the blade will be static, which is an ideal use scenario The only reservation I have is the tape thickness. This will constitute a ridge on the table, on which larger pieces will lean, resulting in a fractional bevel angle. The way to address this, I guess, will be to apply a counter strip of tape to the table for balance.
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brice
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by brice on Jan 30, 2018 19:16:04 GMT -5
got my tape yesterday and have a small project on thursday scheduled.....ill let you know the results.....
thanks!
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Post by fredgab on Jan 31, 2018 4:55:24 GMT -5
great, looking forward on how it will work out with the erika cheers fred
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brice
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by brice on Feb 3, 2018 20:39:03 GMT -5
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Post by Eoj on Feb 4, 2018 8:02:27 GMT -5
Brice,the pictures show the blade in the unlocked position for the pull stroke. Might get better cuts in the locked rip position for rips or sliding table cuts.
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brice
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by brice on Feb 4, 2018 12:00:17 GMT -5
EOJ,
Do you mean the middle position?
that makes sense
overall I was happy with the quality of the cut. The zero clearance tape created a much improved cut versus nothing....
certainly good enough for the what I need it to do - running cabinet tops, bottoms, sides and backs for euro boxes.....
if I need a perfect cut for a miscellaneous product, i can do a number of techniques to achieve it...
I must say that the motor on the mafell is nothing short of Awesome
BRice
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Apr 15, 2018 9:56:38 GMT -5
Hi, ill be ordering some of this asap for my Erika saw. HAs anyone else used this or a similar method? thanks Brice I bought three packs of the FastCap zero clearance tape for my Erika, and used them recently for a window trimming project. All I have to say is, "Wow!!". The windows are stool and apron, so I had a LOT of little returns to cut. In this application, the zero clearance tape was useful not for reducing tear out, but for defining EXACTLY where the blade will cut, which made lining up the work for trimming the returns a breeze. The tape also helps to control and save the tiny return pieces, which would otherwise have a tendency to get sucked into the center channel. Thanks for sharing this nifty product!
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Post by oncomeme on Apr 15, 2018 21:09:14 GMT -5
While I've been perfectly happy with the cut quality on my Erika, whenever I cut tiny little slivers off of something, they get sucked down into the shroud and wedge there because they can't make the turn to actually go into the hose. They eventually jam up and make it difficult and/or impossible to pull the blade until I crawl under there and break them out, so for this reason, I'm now ordering some immediately.
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Post by reflector on Apr 19, 2018 17:42:22 GMT -5
I've done something similar with painter's tape on a non Mafell table saw's insert and on a miter saw. It works if you put on enough layers to sufficiently stiffen it. I suspect you can probably layer some kind of stiff sheet of paper in. Watch your thickness and where it ends if you do this since it'll happily peel up at the edge when something hits it, so it tends to work better on miter saws or anything where the material is stationary and not touching the edge. A fix is to pull the edge all the way over so it never gets hit.
It helps prevent tearout by a little but I don't think it'd be as good as a proper ZCI or the stiff stuff from Fastcap. On a mitersaw I have a cut that's about the same size as the blade so I don't have to use any lighting/laser widgets to figure out where the cut is.
Use the blue colored tape/low residue type or you'll be filled with regrets when you try to clean the goo off. The blue stuff is nice since you can just easily peel off the topmost layer and then put another piece on if you ever feel like you need to refresh it.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 19, 2018 18:34:27 GMT -5
I guess when you think about it every time you make a custom ZCI and you change blades/kerf/tooth width your custom insert isn't so custom anymore. Just slapping on a 99¢ adhesive fix keeps things moving along. Ideally making a ZCI backer that, with a FastCap sticker applied, sits flush with surface would be the best combo for both saw and compound miter.
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