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Blades
Mar 24, 2013 10:10:56 GMT -5
Post by GhostFist on Mar 24, 2013 10:10:56 GMT -5
What type of blades are you using for best results?
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Post by jalvis on Mar 24, 2013 14:33:10 GMT -5
With my MT 55 I have two blades from Mafell which are as follows:
48 Teeth, 160 X 1,8 X 20 mm, Part # 092584
32 Teeth, 160 X 1,8 X 20 mm, Part # 092552
Between the two I have had no need for a different blade over the last two years. Although If i were ripping lots of hardwood I would get a ripping blade with less teeth. Perhaps the Mafell 16 teeth # 092539
Its important to note that the bore hole on the Mafell Mt 55 is 20 mm, which is the same as the Festool TS 55. Therefore the blades are interchangeable. One can buy a Festool blade or any make that has a 20 mm bore and blade diameter of less then 162 mm.
I've used my Mafell blades in the Festool TS55 and ATF55 without a problem.
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Blades
Mar 24, 2013 14:41:54 GMT -5
Post by GhostFist on Mar 24, 2013 14:41:54 GMT -5
that brings up a question I've had which I haven't looked into too much. how is the tooth set between festool and mafell blades? will one eat into my splinter strips more?
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Post by jalvis on Mar 24, 2013 16:47:15 GMT -5
Thats a good question regarding blade Kerf widths. Thankfully Festool list Kerf sizes in there catalog. Mafell doesn't make it quite as easy as a column but all the information is still in the catalog. This is how you Identify kerf widths on the Mafell blades. In the Mafell Catalog or on the Mafell blade you will see the following like marks: 160 x 1,8 x 20 mm "160" = Blade Diameter "1,8" = Blade Kerf "20" = Bore size All dimensions are in Millimeters and the 1,8 is really 1.8 mm. So when referencing the Festool catalog one will see that the blades are thicker. Either 2.2, 2.4, 2.5, or 2.6 mm. For the smaller Festool blade at 2.2 mm and the Mafell at 1.8 mm the difference is .4 mm. Some blade manufacturers make a small blade for the Festool TS 55 thats closer to the Mafell size such as Tenryu. The product information is as follows: PSW-16052CB2TK 52 Teeth, 20 mm Arbor, 1.6 mm Kerf justsawblades.com/ten/festool_saw_blades.html
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Blades
Mar 24, 2013 16:55:54 GMT -5
Post by jalvis on Mar 24, 2013 16:55:54 GMT -5
Even with the Information on the Mafell blades things still get confusing.
For example I measured the blade kerf on one of my Mafell blades that was marked 1.8 mm and it measured 1.6 mm.
Also in the Mafell Catalog the Blades are referenced like the following: 160 x 1,2/1,8 x 20 mm
My guess is that the blades are available in either size kerf 1.2 or 1.8 mm, but I'm just guessing at this point.
Looks like I will have to Email Mafell directly to get more information.
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Blades
Jun 10, 2013 22:23:24 GMT -5
Post by 7 on Jun 10, 2013 22:23:24 GMT -5
I am a bit confused as well about the blade kerf difference between mafell and festool. As referenced in the above posts even the festool blades vary in thickness from one to another. I looked at the festool blades at a local store, if I remember correctly the "panther" blade was the thick one, I think 2.6mm. I wondered the same thing about the blade kerf eating into the splinter guard on the rails. As I looked at the panther blade closely I realized that its teeth were positioned to one side so it wouldn't eat into the track.
Unfortunately I wasn't willing to be the risk taker for the group here to find out if the festool blades would be compatible with the mafell system. I ordered more mafell blades but I am curious to know the answer to the blade kerf splinter guard question.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jun 11, 2013 1:40:44 GMT -5
I wouldn't worry to much about it, as long as the blades are between the diameter that is stated in the manual. Any blade blade from any manufactue will work perfectly fine. The kerf refers to how much it takes out of the wood the advantage of thinner kerf blades is they put less stress on the motor as they are removing less material, but if it's poor quality blade that's blunt they can wonder. As for the splinter guard technically when you put on a new blade or have the blade resharpened you are meant to change the splinter guard but in practice that isn't very practical , as long as the blade isn't a million miles off the splinter guard I wouldn't change. Don't feel you have to exclusively stick to mafell blades
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Blades
Jul 20, 2013 0:23:27 GMT -5
Post by 7 on Jul 20, 2013 0:23:27 GMT -5
Have any of you used the blade specially designed for melamine? When using the scoring function I get absolutely flawless cuts on the top side of the melamine on the non waste side but the underside is not flawless...good but not flawless. I am wondering if the blade designed for melamine would make the cut on the underside & maybe the waste side flawless too.
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Blades
Jul 20, 2013 11:39:24 GMT -5
Post by jalvis on Jul 20, 2013 11:39:24 GMT -5
I would think a good melamine blade would help but I cant say for how long as the blades often get dull quickly. I rarely need flawless cuts on two sides for melamine...maybe shelving. If its being used for cabinet boxes the only side that needs to be good is the inside since the outside edge is butted to another cabinet, covered with a face frame, or end panel. Are you building Melamine doors?
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Blades
Jul 20, 2013 16:31:01 GMT -5
Post by 7 on Jul 20, 2013 16:31:01 GMT -5
I am just making boxes for two window seats that will have 5 drawers below the seat. Not a real crucial application. They will have a face frame as you mentioned so putting the flawless edge in will work perfect for this application. I just remember when I was ordering blades originally they had one with teeth angled specifically for smooth cuts in melamine. Since the cut on the one side is perfect (my brother claimed that his girlfriend could find a flaw in it haha) then I was more wondering if the melamine blade would make all sides perfect.
I'm in the same boat you are as I also usually only need the one edge perfect but I would buy the blade anyway if it made all sides perfect for applications like shelves as you mentioned.
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Blades
Jul 29, 2013 10:15:18 GMT -5
Post by jalvis on Jul 29, 2013 10:15:18 GMT -5
You might consider one of the Festool TS55 blades if theres a dealer near you. If you find the blade to be sub-par you can return it.
My experience with other tools such as sliding panel saws is that the Melamine blades aren't any better than a standard high tooth blade. Thats not to say it wont help so I would be eager to know as well.
The real key to avoiding chip out is a freshly sharpened blade. The problem is melamine dulls blades quickly so most shops have several sharp blades on hand and constantly have several being sharpened.
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Blades
Aug 11, 2013 8:19:05 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by kalas on Aug 11, 2013 8:19:05 GMT -5
Which blade would you recommend for cutting a type of metal faced panel such as Dibond? Thanks
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Blades
Aug 11, 2013 23:36:01 GMT -5
Post by 7 on Aug 11, 2013 23:36:01 GMT -5
Have never used it but I assume this one would be the blade for your dibond with the aluminum facing. I have blades for my miter saw that cut aluminum and copper (non-ferrous i think) and that blade also cuts wood really clean too. I bet there are more options from other brands also. I just bought a bunch of diablo blades for the MT55 wouldn't be surprised if they also make a non ferrous blade. Diablo is the brand of my metal blade for the miter saw.
Festool 496307 Aluminum/Plastic Saw Blade For Ts 55
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Blades
Aug 12, 2013 9:42:23 GMT -5
Post by kalas on Aug 12, 2013 9:42:23 GMT -5
Great! Thanks, no. 7!
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Blades
Sept 17, 2013 17:19:32 GMT -5
Post by fidelfs on Sept 17, 2013 17:19:32 GMT -5
Quick question, if the blade 48 tooth is 162mm of diameter, if we buy a festool blade or 3rd party and they are 160mm will that throw off the scale by 2mm? or is it possible to offset the scale to make it work those blades?
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