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Post by kraftt on Mar 29, 2018 8:50:15 GMT -5
Don't own the metabo but my two cents say that, if it could, you would at least need a thick spacing washer. imgur.com/a/2Dwxd* gotta say that with the availability of online machining there's no good reason we aren't making our own custom arbors flanges. You wouldn't even need to make a cad file, just mail them an existing arbor flange with a sketch of the change you want made to the copy. If enough of us get together and agree on the versions we want the pricing might drop a bit too. The machine shop would then just ship direct to all the different parties.
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Post by holmz on Mar 30, 2018 15:59:49 GMT -5
... * gotta say that with the availability of online machining there's no good reason we aren't making our own custom arbors flanges. You wouldn't even need to make a cad file, just mail them an existing arbor flange with a sketch of the change you want made to the copy. ,,, What online machining? I have had some stuff needing to be turned and cannot seem to find anyone? And I still have the requirement. Also need a cad drafts person.
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Post by aas on Mar 31, 2018 7:42:59 GMT -5
I've put a new 160mm Bosch blade on, 1,3mm plate, 2,0mm kerf - pretty much on the splinter strip, better than the standard blade and the Mafell 48T. The problem is that there is slop in the gearbox shaft. When the saw is cutting, the blade pushes away from the splinter strip (at least it doesn't push into it and cut it!) - by about 1mm. Short of pulling this thing apart and shimming up somewhere, I have to admit defeat - I bought it as a beater saw that runs on the F-rails - it does that very well. If at some point I decide I really need a 50mm+ rail saw that is as accurate as a Mafell - I guess I'll have to buy another Mafell! With modifiying the base - elongating the holes a bit, and filing of part of the front plastic support, I'm to within about 1/4 mm. I think a 1/4mm is pretty good.
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Post by kraftt on Mar 31, 2018 10:34:31 GMT -5
I've put a new 160mm Bosch blade on, 1,3mm plate, 2,0mm kerf - pretty much on the splinter strip, better than the standard blade and the Mafell 48T. The problem is that there is slop in the gearbox shaft. When the saw is cutting, the blade pushes away from the splinter strip (at least it doesn't push into it and cut it!) - by about 1mm. Short of pulling this thing apart and shimming up somewhere, I have to admit defeat - I bought it as a beater saw that runs on the F-rails - it does that very well. If at some point I decide I really need a 50mm+ rail saw that is as accurate as a Mafell - I guess I'll have to buy another Mafell! I think a 1/4mm is pretty good. I'm sorry to hear that. It doesn't make sense that a modern tool could have that much bearing or shaft slop. The upper saw, actual saw, is of course held fast to the base by the two 45º bevel guide wing nuts & the pivot pin. I wonder if that's where the stress slop shows up. I'd assume that scoring depth cuts are precise? " ...new 160mm Bosch blade... better than Mafell 48T." which one is this?
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Post by kraftt on Mar 31, 2018 10:46:01 GMT -5
... * gotta say that with the availability of online machining there's no good reason we aren't making our own custom arbors flanges. You wouldn't even need to make a cad file, just mail them an existing arbor flange with a sketch of the change you want made to the copy. ,,, What online machining? I have had some stuff needing to be turned and cannot seem to find anyone? And I still have the requirement. Also need a cad drafts person. A while back I had searched prototyping forums etc. to find some reasonable online shops for a 7.5mm thin rail-square I'd designed and the consensus in these forums identified three. Went to pull them up thinking I had bookmarked them and can't find em. When it's time to reboot the ol' 'porn machine' none of my pages or cache are saved due to the privacy programs I run so I'll have to search again. * I remember one of them stated on the home page something to the effect that you could just send in a sketch etc. and that they had their own cad help. Though I bet that could get expensive and is the reason they offer. Any kid in your town can help you using google 'Sketchup' or better program.
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Post by aas on Mar 31, 2018 11:40:58 GMT -5
I've put a new 160mm Bosch blade on, 1,3mm plate, 2,0mm kerf - pretty much on the splinter strip, better than the standard blade and the Mafell 48T. The problem is that there is slop in the gearbox shaft. When the saw is cutting, the blade pushes away from the splinter strip (at least it doesn't push into it and cut it!) - by about 1mm. Short of pulling this thing apart and shimming up somewhere, I have to admit defeat - I bought it as a beater saw that runs on the F-rails - it does that very well. If at some point I decide I really need a 50mm+ rail saw that is as accurate as a Mafell - I guess I'll have to buy another Mafell! I'm sorry to hear that. It doesn't make sense that a modern tool could have that much bearing or shaft slop. The upper saw, actual saw, is of course held fast to the base by the two 45º bevel guide wing nuts & the pivot pin. I wonder if that's where the stress slop shows up. I'd assume that scoring depth cuts are precise? " ...new 160mm Bosch blade... better than Mafell 48T." which one is this? Bosch 2608644136 The slop is in the gearbox shaft, everything else is nicely tightened up. It is possible to push/pull the shaft and it visibly moves.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 1, 2018 0:34:45 GMT -5
Bosch 2608644136 - I see it's sort of a combination of a TCG tooth with ATB scoring tooth, so durable for laminate and melamine plus sharp for scoring. Looks like it's also very, very close to the mafell 48t in tooth overhang so it should cut right to a splinter guard that seen the mafell blade before. Good heads up, thanks. BOSCH BLADES---------------------- Did you ever contact MetaBro about the shaft travel ?
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Post by aas on Apr 1, 2018 12:01:04 GMT -5
I've sent Metabo an email, waiting to see what they say.
Did some full depth rip cuts with the Bosch blade from both sides to cut an 80mm piece of wood - no problems. It does not flex like the standard supplied blade.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 11, 2018 22:42:50 GMT -5
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Post by GhostFist on Apr 12, 2018 5:57:46 GMT -5
No idea why you would use a router with the dd40 jig for shelf pins. Pardon, a router, and a jig, to use a jig built for another tool
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Post by kraftt on Apr 12, 2018 12:40:55 GMT -5
Yeah, it struck me as a long way round the block. Seems that if you already owned the mafell dowel drilling template you’d prefer to drill two holes at once with your DD40. Their dominofix template looks handy and all but $300 for a jig which includes only one template & shipping + now you need to buy a mafell 203980 @ $273 …
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Post by GhostFist on Apr 26, 2018 15:33:06 GMT -5
Also, can we stop upselling crap by calling it "multifunction"?
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Post by huntsgemein on Apr 26, 2018 19:41:44 GMT -5
Also, can we stop upselling crap by calling it "multifunction"? It'd be hard. The word "compromise/d" just doesn't have the same marketing ring to it, even if it's actually closer to the truth.
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Post by GhostFist on May 1, 2018 13:59:55 GMT -5
I guess it's more the "multifuntion" piece of wood with holes drilled in it that gets me more than anything
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Post by skinee on Jul 8, 2018 10:04:41 GMT -5
really disappointed with this saw,used it seriously for the first time yesterday trying to rip some old shuttering ply(3/4") which still had some 'snotters' of concrete attached,aligned the base as close as I could to my rails,<1mm out but I could easily allow for that.the saw is, as someome else on here has said,utterly gutless,no power for even this type of task,it was stalling, pulling away from or moving the guide rail,total rubbish.luckily I had the kss40 with me,powered through the old ply like butter.any other metabo tool I have owned has been fine,no frills,bells or whistles but solid at the basics,this piece of crap cant even achieve the basics.
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