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Post by aas on Mar 4, 2018 8:49:08 GMT -5
I've tried a newly sharpened Mafell 162mm 48tooth blade on the '57.
Base plate pushed over as far as possible at the fron, then tightened up, rail put on the baseplate with saw upside down and rear of baseplate adjusted so it tracks straight.
The front screws are pushed over to the limit, the rear screws about a third of the way across the slots, does explain why it was badly tracking before. Not 'well' engineered to be this far out though...
The blade is still just under 0.5 mm off the splinter strip, not sure if there is a way to adjust up further, I'll have another look...
However, the saw is cutting well with this blade, no blade deflection. Also tried with the 160mm Festool Panther.
I think I'll get in a proper 165mm blade, (Bosch or similar), maybe something around 2.0mm will close up the gap. The saw seems to have enough power for a thicker blade. The standard blade is too flexible.
Anyone else tried different blades on this?
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Post by huntsgemein on Mar 5, 2018 6:37:57 GMT -5
I thought we'd been through this already... the plate thickness won't make a bit of difference to the guiderail clearance. It can't, as the "inner" plate edge is just one of those "fixed" dimensions that doesn't change irrespective of actual plate thickness. Only the DIFFERENCE between the plate & actual kerf thickness is a relevant variable.
The only way you can easily close that gap is by reducing the thickness of your arbor washer in relation to where it sits on the arbor: i.e. a reduction of 0.5mm will close the gap, whereas a blade change won't unless the teeth "overhang" is a total of 1.0 mm greater than the current blade's.
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Post by aas on Mar 5, 2018 16:43:47 GMT -5
Nice condescending reply, thanks...
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Post by holmz on Mar 5, 2018 18:33:31 GMT -5
I thought we'd been through this already... ... The only way you can easily close that gap is by reducing the thickness of your arbor washer in relation to where it sits on the arbor: i.e. a reduction of 0.5mm will close the gap, whereas a blade change won't unless the teeth "overhang" is a total of 1.0 mm greater than the current blade's. While I agree, I would suggest move the screws back to where they were and putting a new splinter strip on the rail. that may fix it.
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Post by aas on Mar 6, 2018 1:53:55 GMT -5
Kind of defeats the object, the rails are for the MT55 and KSS40. Crazy that the KS57 won't adjust up to the same cut line... someone decided where the F-rail groove should be cut. Just a shame the groove is in the wrong place.
With modifiying the base - elongating the holes a bit, and filing of part of the front plastic support, I'm to within about 1/4 mm.
Standard blade is a 1.2/1.8mm I found a 1.3/2.0mm but don't think the 0.05mm will make the difference. I'll see if I can find a 1.4/2.2, don't want to put anything too wide on.
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Post by thehandyman on Mar 22, 2018 1:18:01 GMT -5
Metabo is making their own crosscut guide rail for the saw. Got word straight from Metabo.
They sent my the new 57 circular saw for review.
Travis @toolsbydesign (Instagram)
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Post by skinee on Mar 22, 2018 16:53:35 GMT -5
Metabo is making their own crosscut guide rail for the saw. Got word straight from Metabo. They sent my the new 57 circular saw for review. Travis @toolsbydesign (Instagram) thanks for this information,much appreciated,please let us know if you get further news.
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Post by thehandyman on Mar 22, 2018 17:02:12 GMT -5
Metabo is making their own crosscut guide rail for the saw. Got word straight from Metabo. They sent my the new 57 circular saw for review. Travis @toolsbydesign (Instagram) thanks for this information,much appreciated,please let us know if you get further news. I'll be getting a track as soon as they decide to send me one. And the new 8.0ah LiHD battery.
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Post by huntsgemein on Mar 22, 2018 20:23:03 GMT -5
I was wondering when the 4.0ah/8.0ah batteries were being released. They "announced" a 2018 delivery time way back in 2016 (& 4.5/9.0ah versions for 2019), but apart from the Bosch iteration's release a month or two ago that's all I'd heard to date.
Metabo Australia, with unimpeachable ignorance, only imports the bigger 2-row batteries. Must think us Oz-mensch are a nation of Ironman Champions or something! The bigger batteries are fine attached to their SCMS, grinders & even their circular saws, but the most commonly used tools - drills,rattlers, recipros etc. - benefit from the smaller, lighter more easily handled batteries. I hope they reconsider with this new batch of batteries, as it's currently impossible to privately import lithium batteries to Australia, at least by post anyway.
These new Sanyo cells should be popular with electric car & bike users too, not to mention the incremental addition in efficiency for home solar storage batteries. I wonder if Sanyo-Panasonic sell loose ones yet?
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Post by kraftt on Mar 23, 2018 11:50:17 GMT -5
Kind of defeats the object, the rails are for the MT55 and KSS40. Crazy that the KS57 won't adjust up to the same cut line... someone decided where the F-rail groove should be cut. Just a shame the groove is in the wrong place. With modifiying the base - elongating the holes a bit, and filing of part of the front plastic support, I'm to within about 1/4 mm. Standard blade is a 1.2/1.8mm I found a 1.3/2.0mm but don't think the 0.05mm will make the difference. I'll see if I can find a 1.4/2.2, don't want to put anything too wide on. I think a 1/4mm is pretty good. I'll just mention to anyone reading that, regardless of the brand of battery saw, if you don't mind giving up 3mm in depth of cut, slapping on 3mm ~ 5mm sheet stock to the bottom of any saw base will mate it perfectly with f-rail. I was thinking of picking up a 6-½ or 7-¼ milwaukee cordless for an always on truck beater since I now have some extra batts and bolting on a 3mm sheet of lexan on the base, leave a gap for the guide and then add another strip of sheet on the other side. If its not snug enough I can install some flat head bolts with eccentric washers to snug up. This approach should work for any saw. One assembly approach could be to place your two precut sheets of preferred material onto f-rail with thin double stick tape tight to guide, then apply some silicone adhesive or other easy to remove slow drying adhesive on top, now position the saw base on top and align blade to splinter strip (prob want to remove spring first -ez). Let it dry in place (maybe clamp if even possible without making it move). Later use solvent to loosen double stick tape, remove saw and drill countersunk mounting holes through sheet and base of saw - and bob's your auntie. Might be a good idea to sand away the mid section of any sheet stock and let it only touch the guide towards the front and back of saw base as all other track saws do.
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Post by Eoj on Mar 24, 2018 15:07:44 GMT -5
link From this press release for north america , the blade arbor is two sided. One side has a 20mm arbor the other side is 5/8 arbor. Can the owners of this saw confirm this ,please .
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Post by thehandyman on Mar 24, 2018 21:30:32 GMT -5
link From this press release for north america , the blade arbor is two sided. One side has a 20mm arbor the other side is 5/8 arbor. Can the owners of this saw confirm this ,please . Yes, confirmed.
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Post by Eoj on Mar 24, 2018 22:02:39 GMT -5
Thanks for the confirmation,the handyman.
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Post by aas on Mar 25, 2018 2:00:02 GMT -5
This saw is working out very well with the Mafell 48T blade on.
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Post by calidecks on Mar 29, 2018 1:40:59 GMT -5
Well that blade washer work on Mafell saws?
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