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Mt55cc
Apr 5, 2017 1:58:08 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2017 1:58:08 GMT -5
Hi every one, hope all is well
i purchased the Mafell mt55cc plunge saw and I wanted to know how to cut the splinter guard rubber on the Mafell rails, What debth do you need to set the blade at to cut it? Also is there any way you can make repeated accurate cuts , is there any parallel guide rails for this saw ? Is there an accurate square system to make quick square cuts with the rails?
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Mt55cc
Apr 5, 2017 2:10:01 GMT -5
Post by holmz on Apr 5, 2017 2:10:01 GMT -5
Just laying on a board and go at it for the strip.
The try a pencils mark on a board and lay the strip aligned "on your mark,.. Get set... go!"
Clamps are worthwhile IMO.
(No rail parallel guides as far as I know)
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Mt55cc
Apr 5, 2017 8:28:43 GMT -5
Post by kraftt on Apr 5, 2017 8:28:43 GMT -5
I like the idea of using clamps, and not stopping / re-starting cut making sure to make one continuous pass.
Someone mentioned here about not forgetting to adjust the ‘setting wheels’ (#21 in the manual) to take out any side to side movement/play before you cut the splinter guard.
Some Festool owners insist that setting plunge depth to 10mm is best practice while other cite a reference in their Fest manual to cut at full depth.
If you wanted to get ‘esoteric’ you could even spray the blade first with dry lube teflon, as well as the underside of the splinter guard. (being sure to clean off the entire underside of rail when finished).
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Mt55cc
Apr 5, 2017 10:03:00 GMT -5
Post by reflector on Apr 5, 2017 10:03:00 GMT -5
I've gotten away with using non Mafell clamps in interrupted cuts before (Didn't have rail clamps on hand, wanted to make rip cut instead of going back to get them). Cut, stop, remove the clamp, put firm pressure on the baseplate so the rail doesn't want to move and continue the cut... If you're feeling competent enough (Careful, Dunning Kruger induced moment probability with kickback) you can keep the saw plunged but stopped then start the cut so the rail won't shift. Don't actually go into the territory of actual Dunning Kruger by not stopping the saw, removing the clamp with a hypothetical third arm and finishing the cut. Get the actual clamps before you decide to go there.
There's the 90 degree fence.* I find it accurate enough for 24-36"+ cuts. Make marks if you really want to be precise.
*In Bosch or Mafell flavors. They're the same thing. Also the clamps also come in Mafell and Bosch flavors which are very different. The Mafell is a screw clamp and the Bosch is a trigger clamp. Don't drop the Bosch ones or you'll be hosed since the end has tiny screws that can break off.
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Mt55cc
Apr 14, 2017 3:28:08 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2017 3:28:08 GMT -5
Yeah thanks guys I had a kick back I can't understand what happened exactly and I damaged the Mafell rail or dear I was gutted , so I'm gonna cut it short , I was gonna do that anyway because 1.6 are bit long to move about on small cuts.
on the Bosch demonstration video on line Bosch said the blade should be set at 10mm depth for cutting the splinter guard . So Thats why I asked about mafell
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Mt55cc
Apr 14, 2017 3:47:11 GMT -5
Post by holmz on Apr 14, 2017 3:47:11 GMT -5
I did the same once... Now I slide the saw back and forth with the blade up to make sure it is "on track" before I start sawing.
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Mt55cc
Apr 14, 2017 4:00:51 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2017 4:00:51 GMT -5
Yeah you right 100% that's the best way I have learned the hard way , But yeah Now i have to tell my self to run the saw back and forward couple times make sure it's on the groove smooth with no snags , check measure again then cut .
this lube sounds good which one would you recommend for the rails and also the base plate on the saw?
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Mt55cc
Apr 14, 2017 4:06:36 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2017 4:06:36 GMT -5
Yes I noticed clamps are must also because it moved on a cut once. when I cleaned clean the rubber and cut surface before the cut then less chance of moving but that's a hassle if you cutting a lot .
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Post by kraftt on Apr 14, 2017 10:29:36 GMT -5
As far as lube goes, I only mentioned it because it seemed you wanted to effect the cleanest splinter guard cut besides following any recommended method. Can’t say whether a dry teflon lube would make any difference when using a brand new 48t blade on a thin rubber strip but reduced friction couldn’t hurt. There is a thread here about what different people use on the top side of the rail to ease sliding friction with a caution about using silicone based products because of the havoc they create for stains/finishes. You’ll find some don’t feel the need for any lube preferring to just keep all surfaces clean. Link
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Post by erik on Apr 14, 2017 11:15:42 GMT -5
I'm always looking for the best posture and technique to comfortably control the outcome of a cut, route, mill, etc.. Like any new physical act, its best to perform a few warm ups or a couple of dry runs to get the feel for it.
I have a few nicks on my tracks that cause me to rethink my position - ugly but they serve as the perfect reminders.
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Mt55cc
Apr 14, 2017 14:20:56 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2017 14:20:56 GMT -5
Yeah true , thanks
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Mt55cc
Apr 14, 2017 20:57:35 GMT -5
Post by holmz on Apr 14, 2017 20:57:35 GMT -5
I would not use lube with a saw.
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Mt55cc
Apr 15, 2017 10:43:07 GMT -5
Post by mafelluser on Apr 15, 2017 10:43:07 GMT -5
Is there an accurate square system to make quick square cuts with the rails? The best method I've seen is to not rely upon any adjustable protractors or squares, but instead to buy or make an MFT-style work surface, which is nothing more than a slab of 18mm MDF with 20mm holes drilled in a grid formation, to 96mm (centre-to-centre) spacings. This allows one to push in some 20mm pegs ('dogs'), along the X-axis, against which to line-up the material to be cut, and then another pair of pegs/dogs (ones that protrude further from the work surface) can be inserted, along the Y-axis, against which to line-up the saw track. This means that, provided the work surface has been very accurately drilled, then this method will very rapidly provide a reliable 90-degree alignment for cutting purposes. If you are a site/mobile worker, rather than in a dedicated workshop, then there are ways to create some really neat mobile MFT-style workbenches, one of the best of which may be found here (economical plans available): mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/42/timtools-mftcbenchworks.be/en/projects/mf-tc-multifunction-tool-cart/Although you can, undoubtedly, drill the top yourself, in the UK, the following is a good value option to obtain high work surface drilling accuracy without the painstaking hassle of doing it yourself: www.cncdesign.co.uk/cnc/Replacement-Festool-Type-Top-.html
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Mt55cc
Apr 15, 2017 11:46:04 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2017 11:46:04 GMT -5
Yeah thanks
that CNc machined top looks good for the price I wouldn't bother with the table , I carry draper foldable trestles and planks I just use them. Can you get longer metal pegs /dogs so when your cutting thicker stuff to align the rail with?
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Mt55cc
Apr 15, 2017 13:18:25 GMT -5
Post by mafelluser on Apr 15, 2017 13:18:25 GMT -5
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