zaax
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by zaax on Jun 29, 2016 9:02:50 GMT -5
Hi guys, This is a table I built for my saw. Please ignore the not so pretty wood and stuff; I used scrap and leftovers, a metal frame I found at work, and my 14 yo practiced some cuts on this. Admittedly this is not elegant, but is be rock solid. Anyway, see link for pics, it's pretty self explanatory, I bought a second base plate for this. This allows you to keep one permanently in the table, and with a quick throw of the lever, you can remove the saw for regular work. We bought a Mafell, might as well enjoy the benefits! Of course, you CAN just remove the M6 screws each time, but I felt it was worth the extra money for the convenience of not having to screw and unscrew the baseplate from the table every time. Another point: it was important for me to get the saw as close as possible to the top because of the unique mafell blade lock system. Thus I used a metal plate (I think 3-4 mm, I did not measure, I just had it). Part two, eventually, will be a ball bearing stabilizer foot thing. I am still planning it out exactly, but it will involve welding arms to each side (yes this will limit the max width of what I can put through it, but this is not replacing my table saw anyway), a cross stretcher, and some mechanism to raise and lower the fork and foot. = I made a fence too - will need to measure on each side or something to make a parallel cut. Not sure Ill ever need this, but I wanted to play with my welder. However, I am a terrible metal worker. One of the two countersinks came out star shaped and the weld of the nut to the fence is lamentable. imgur.com/a/lgmgbenjoy. I am sure people will come up with improvements, please post.
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Post by charley1968 on Jun 29, 2016 13:03:45 GMT -5
Welcome! Not as shiny as FT, but as long as it works.. Kudos for building something instead of buying.
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zaax
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by zaax on Jun 30, 2016 1:13:10 GMT -5
FT?
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Post by holmz on Jun 30, 2016 3:24:15 GMT -5
FT-Festool.
I like it... It looks a bit kindergarten on the ends, but the business part where the blade goes through looks like what it should be like. The idea is stunning, which is often more important than the execution of it.
It looks like a rather handy thing. If someone had a shop we could get a few knocked out based upon your R&D. I am chin scratching about making an insert.
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zaax
New Member
Posts: 7
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Post by zaax on Jun 30, 2016 7:22:32 GMT -5
Thanks! I agree the execution leaves much to be desired, but it kinda developed as I went along. And like I mentioned, I used what I found. I was looking at youtube at how people make jigsaw tables and did not like any of them. I had the main idea when I looked at the holes in the base, realized they are situated to be perfectly balanced and said "hmmmm". And I happened to have a metal plate near that size. I added a sheet of wood attached to the bottom f the feet so I can easily clamp to my table, adding screws from the metal frame into the wood to make it bombproof. I do tend to over-engineer stuff. I am chin scratching about making an insert. You mean, instead of buying a second baseplate? I saw a guy whom machined one for a simple jigsaw, but the orig mafell fits perfectly, has the right holes etc. Save
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Post by GhostFist on Jun 30, 2016 9:49:10 GMT -5
Step one, get the thing working.
Step two, improve prototype if necessary
"Does it do the job?" Is more important than "Does it match the rest of the shop decor and accentuate my natural eye colour?"
You have a functioning jigsaw table, while others are still fasting in hopes that divine inspiration is brought about through nutrition deprived hallucinations
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Post by charley1968 on Jun 30, 2016 13:29:02 GMT -5
OT: Ghostfist: your last sentence is from now on going to be in my 'wisecracking' store! Ta! 😝
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Post by holmz on Jun 30, 2016 18:20:03 GMT -5
I am thinking of mounting it on a table saw leaf. The Feng Shui of the work place needs to conform to GF and OSHA standards.
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Post by rizzoa13 on Jun 30, 2016 18:28:51 GMT -5
I am thinking of mounting it on a table saw leaf. The Feng Shui of the work place needs to conform to GF and OSHA standards. You just gave me some good ideas. I've got a router leaf insert on the side of my Erika but the possibilities are endless... Belt sander upside down, jigsaw, spindle sander? Interesting.
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Post by Eoj on Jun 30, 2016 20:43:13 GMT -5
P1cc in table .
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Post by holmz on Jul 1, 2016 19:13:10 GMT -5
Bruthas We think alike.
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Post by reflector on Jul 1, 2016 21:50:17 GMT -5
I was planning to make a jigsaw table drop in Bosch 4100 with the extension side by dropping a piece of plywood in but I was going to counterbore the screws (More grabbing area for the head) instead of countersinking them.
After seeing the metal plate route, I am now considering moving to a different material than plywood to minmize the thickness.
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Post by reflector on Jul 2, 2016 23:11:15 GMT -5
For everyone's considerations on using various materials to mount the P1cc and the thicknesses involved, see the below:
Found some stiffness calculations on another forum and ran the formulas through Wolfram Alpha to figure this out:
A 12" strip of 5/8s OSB (.593 or 19/32) is equivalent to: .237" to .276" thick aluminum alloy .164" to .191" thick steel alloy .221" to .248" thick plywood
1/8" aluminum would be 9% of the stiffness of the OSB 3/16" aluminum would be 31% of the stiffness of the OSB 1/4" aluminum would be 75% of the stiffness of the OSB 5/16" aluminum would be 146% of the stiffness of the OSB 1/8" steel would be 28% of the stiffness of the OSB 3/16" steel would be 94% of the stiffness of the OSB 1/4" steel would be 224% of the stiffness of the OSB
Aluminum is "easy" to machine in the sense that a proper jigsaw blade will cut right through it (Especially thin stock), as well as TCG sawblades. There's videos of people pushing through thick stock (1"+) on a crosscut sled with a proper blade and it'll cut just fine but don't expect machinist precision.
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Post by holmz on Jul 4, 2016 3:51:32 GMT -5
For everyone's considerations on using various materials to mount the P1cc and the thicknesses involved, see the below: Found some stiffness calculations on another forum and ran the formulas through Wolfram Alpha to figure this out: A 12" strip of 5/8s OSB (.593 or 19/32) is equivalent to: .237" to .276" thick aluminum alloy .164" to .191" thick steel alloy .221" to .248" thick plywood 1/4" plywood would be 2% of the stiffness of the OSB 3/8" plywood would be 7% of the stiffness of the OSB 1/2" plywood would be 17% of the stiffness of the OSB 1/8" alumnium would be 9% of the stifness of the OSB 1/4" aluminum would be 75% of the stifness of the OSB 5/16" aluminum would be 146% of the stiffness of the OSB 1/8" steel would be 28% of the stiffness of the OSB 1/4" steel would be 224% of the stiffness of the OSB Aluminum is "easy" to machine in the sense that a proper jigsaw blade will cut right through it (Especially thin stock), as well as TCG sawblades. There's videos of people pushing through thick stock (1"+) on a crosscut sled with a proper blade and it'll cut just fine but don't expect machinist precision. Is there an idea of mounting it on an Erika? i have some carbon fibre,a don thinking of making a few leafs if more than just myself wants one...
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Post by reflector on Jul 4, 2016 7:51:15 GMT -5
Is there an idea of mounting it on an Erika? i have some carbon fibre,a don thinking of making a few leafs if more than just myself wants one... I'm going to be mounting mine onto my Bosch 4100 later, the 4100 is pretty straightforward for me since I just need to pull the extension wing out and drop the (plywood) plate inbetween the rails with a rabbet to locate it. Joe/Eoj has as good example of the P1cc in the Erika and there is another example here: mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/23/erika-home-jigsaw-table . The thing is I am considering using aluminum since it has the stiffness needed at thin thicknesses. 1/4" to 5/16" seems to give the stiffness and potential rigidity needed, whereas cutting a P1cc footplate shaped pocket into the plywood would be a mildly questionable choice compared to using an aluminum plate to mount the P1cc into and then drop the plate onto the plywood like it was a router plate. I was at the plywood option but now I am kind of wondering if it'd be that good of an idea since I end up losing a lot of cut depth (And rigidity at the blade) or I end up with a questionable mount for the P1cc. I am still thinking about this one because I've seen "thinner" mounts for a Carvex under table and I'm wondering if I actually need a thick section of plywood or not. There's also the option of cutting an aluminum extrusion (Like a miter bar extrusion) and dadoing it in the middle of the plywood where the P1cc's footplate screws would mount and then just using that to span the gap where the P1cc shaped pocket would be. There is also the more complicated solution of making a mounting station for the P1cc (An alternative to a spare footplate) but that comes much, much later for me if I can get access to a CNC mill. I am completely overthinking this right now.
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