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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 11, 2015 7:45:08 GMT -5
Currently working on a project. Doing a 3 story renovation the floors are almost 200mm off the level in one room. So the floors are getting lifted then tapering pieces cut to level them up. Here is one getting done
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Post by jalvis on Sept 12, 2015 22:18:01 GMT -5
That place looks like horror movie. How old is that place?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 13, 2015 4:23:53 GMT -5
Not a 100% sure how old but over 200 years old. I honestly think that from day one, this particular house had being built badly off the level as things like the mitres on the architraves are still tight with no gaps. Which indicates to me it was wrong from day one. Basically from day one the house has being built by cowboys then people over time have come in and bodged things up. Upto I guess the early 90s. I've found a penny from 1915. Then news paper cuttings from the 1980s, can't read what they say as in Arabic yet I did find a date on one. At the moment I'm busy leveling the floors can't get them all 100% but pretty near as at the doorways is set in then there is some of the structural beam that are higher. Which I can't make lower. I can easily pack up yet going down is a lot harder. Some of the things I've seen have being totally crazy like the windows when they have had a broken pane of glass instead of taking out the old glass removing the old putty from the outside and redoing correctly from the outside. Some have being done from the inside by leaving a strip of glass in the putty, then putting a new pane of glass from the inside out then putty put on sounds bad looks even worse. So at the moment extremely busy it will all look good when done and look like it's always being done just a lot of work. Personally I wouldnt have bought the house yet people want to stay in new town of edinburgh. Which isn't that new. Here is a little info on the area www.edinburghguide.com/newtownedinburgh
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Post by aas on Sept 13, 2015 11:47:50 GMT -5
I did exactly the same thing on a 300 year old town house here in France a few years back, complete renovation over 200sq.m. Worse thing with levelling the floors like that, none of them had noggins and had sagged quite a bit, so I was cutting curves into the levelling pieces at the same time as cutting in the tapers - all marked out by laser and measured every 20 cm or so. What impressed me on your video was how well the Erika cut through the timbers. I was doing maybe 60 or 70mm thick timbers, with one of my site saws, I think the Dewalt with the induction motor, and it just didn't have the torque, supposed to cut 100mm, runs quiet, but not powerful enough. I was doing 6m lengths and it was a real struggle!
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 13, 2015 15:05:19 GMT -5
The timbers are just under 50mm that I'm ripping with a 48 tooth blade that has recently being sharpened. Not the best blade for ripping. I will try to post pics of the job as I go
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Post by holmz on Sept 13, 2015 16:43:21 GMT -5
The new board will bend to confirm to the existing beam, so parallel cuts will only result in a straight surface at a different angle if the original beam was straight. If the existing beam is wavy then the cut needs to be wavy or the top of the new beam needs to be planed to be a surface which is planar
One could screw the new ones on the side to transfer the marks, and then cut them with a jigsaw. That at least has the top as the original machined 2x6/2x8 surface.
But I have not done this sort of Work before.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 13, 2015 17:25:45 GMT -5
Basically the joists have being dovetailed into heavy structural beams. Some of them will have dips and others will have high points in the center, as long as not not more than 2 or 3 mm either way I will let it go. I could spend my time getting it 100% correct. Yet there is little point when you see the back of the flooring which is what I've lifted off denailed then am going to reuse in some areas. It has had scoops taken out with the axe when laid originally so might be 22mm then 450mm along might be 30mm. When laying the floor I will have strips if hardboard for any areas that are too low on the joists then for any high areas will get hit with the electric plane
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 13, 2015 17:44:25 GMT -5
The new board will bend to confirm to the existing beam, so parallel cuts will only result in a straight surface at a different angle if the original beam was straight. If the existing beam is wavy then the cut needs to be wavy or the top of the new beam needs to be planed to be a surface which is planar One could screw the new ones on the side to transfer the marks, and then cut them with a jigsaw. That at least has the top as the original machined 2x6/2x8 surface. But I have not done this sort of Work before. There is a few ways to do this a really simple way is to screw the packer down first to take up the joist shape then with the laser set and using a rod to mark the leval at either end then with a chalk line ping a line. Then unscrew marking one end so you know which end to put where. Then using the table saw or circular saw to fallow the chalk line. I personally wouldn't bother with the jigsaw takes far too long. Then I wil go back and screw it on or nail it on making sure it's placed the right way.
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Post by holmz on Sept 14, 2015 3:04:45 GMT -5
My main point was that the chalk line will be curved if the wood is pulled to a shape... (I doubt it matters)
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Post by aas on Sept 14, 2015 4:27:18 GMT -5
Renovation work is always a compromise - yeah sure I took the time to cut the curves to the bottom of the timbers, even then, cutting a curve in a 70mm timber on a site saw is not easy, I still needed to add packers here and there. Then I had the 'luxury' of installing new timber flooring, re-using old floor boards will be fun for you! But I agree, takes too much time to use a jigsaw for this sort of thing.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 14, 2015 11:28:16 GMT -5
Here is a pic of the back of the flooring Attachments:
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Post by aas on Sept 14, 2015 11:45:28 GMT -5
wow that's rough!
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 14, 2015 13:20:22 GMT -5
Yeah not looking forward to laying it back down
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Post by holmz on Sept 14, 2015 14:58:56 GMT -5
I am speaking from no experience...
However a track saw or a table saw generally gives straight cuts. So if the wood was bend to mark it, or ends up being bent when installed, then the top will not be flat.
I like using my jig saw - but it it is more than one would expect.
The flooring looks like it came straight off the boat with the animals.
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Post by aas on Sept 14, 2015 15:42:24 GMT -5
I am speaking from no experience... However a track saw or a table saw generally gives straight cuts. So if the wood was bend to mark it, or ends up being bent when installed, then the top will not be flat. I like using my jig saw - but it it is more than one would expect. The flooring looks like it came straight off the boat with the animals. I'm not sure who's not understanding who!.. but speaking from experience, a straight piece of wood can be cut into a curve with a circular or table saw! Aaron was showing a smart way to cut a taper on a table saw, and trust me, it works well. If the existing beams are curved (as was the case in which I was talking), the bottom of the cuts have to be curved so the top ends up flat. In a professional setting, when there are that many cuts to do (i.e tens of metres) in solid timber, a jigsaw is a no-no. It might be the case that generally circular bladed saws are used for straight cuts, but a gentle curve over 5 or 6m is do-able.
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