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rails?
Jan 15, 2015 14:29:18 GMT -5
Post by calidecks on Jan 15, 2015 14:29:18 GMT -5
Yes I have the 118"festool track, can I still use it?
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rails?
Jan 15, 2015 14:31:18 GMT -5
Post by calidecks on Jan 15, 2015 14:31:18 GMT -5
As a matter of fact I have many festool tracks. I would really like to use them if I could.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 15, 2015 14:36:54 GMT -5
The longest rail is 3.1m. Is there a particular reason for wanting such a long rail?
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Jan 15, 2015 15:10:41 GMT -5
As a matter of fact I have many festool tracks. I would really like to use them if I could. You "can" use the Festool tracks with the MT-55, but the Mafell tracks are far superior to the Festool tracks, ultimately you'll be better off selling the Festool tracks and converting over to the F-tracks. Two F-160 tracks and a connector would nicely replace your FS 3000 track.
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Post by jonathan on Jan 15, 2015 15:33:17 GMT -5
The only Mafell saw compatible with the Festool tracks is the MT55cc plunge cut saw, which is a direct counterpart to the Festool TS55R. There is a however a caveat you should be aware of. The Festool guide rails have a thickness of about 4mm, whereas the Mafell guiderails are around 6mm in thickness. Because of this difference in thickness the pivot point of the saws becomes different. To cut to the chase, when using the Mafell on a Festool rail to make bevel cuts, the cut line will not be exactly on the rubber edge of the guide rail. The greater the bevel angle, the further out your cutline will be. For 90° cuts, your cutline is simply on the rubber edge of the guiderail as you'd expect.
To be clear, when using Mafell rails, your cut line is, as you'd expect, exactly on the rubber edge, regardless of your bevel angle. The saw is compatible with Festool rails, to an extent, but as others have said, if you're looking to invest in Mafell, you're better off getting the rails as well. They have a few distinct advantages over the Festool ones.
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rails?
Jan 16, 2015 3:00:02 GMT -5
Post by calidecks on Jan 16, 2015 3:00:02 GMT -5
The longest rail is 3.1m. Is there a particular reason for wanting such a long rail? Yes, I am a deck builder and I cut seam boards up the middle of my decks with the long rail.
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Post by jonathan on Jan 16, 2015 3:28:07 GMT -5
calidecks, you might want to check out the KSS line of saws over an MT55cc, which is more geared towards laminated sheet goods. Depending on your workstyle, the KSS saws can allow for some nice time savings for the type of work you do. There's a few videos on the KSS subforums.
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rails?
Jan 16, 2015 5:42:15 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 16, 2015 5:42:15 GMT -5
The longest rail is 3.1m. Is there a particular reason for wanting such a long rail? Yes, I am a deck builder and I cut seam boards up the middle of my decks with the long rail. Not trying to put you off getting the long rail. Personally I wouldnt bother as others have said when joining, they self straighten. Also a 3.1m rail is a pain to transport. I seen myself doing the floors and their is a change in the joist direction so the flooring will changed direction. I will do the first section and let the boards fly through for the first part then I will join 2/1600+1100 rails giving me 4.3m. Always end up with a perfectly straight cut. The next lot of boards that butt in work perfectly as long as I have set it square. Also as Jonathan has said the kss saws are something to thing about
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rails?
Jan 16, 2015 12:33:55 GMT -5
Post by calidecks on Jan 16, 2015 12:33:55 GMT -5
Yes, I am a deck builder and I cut seam boards up the middle of my decks with the long rail. Not trying to put you off getting the long rail. Personally I wouldnt bother as others have said when joining, they self straighten. Also a 3.1m rail is a pain to transport. I seen myself doing the floors and their is a change in the joist direction so the flooring will changed direction. I will do the first section and let the boards fly through for the first part then I will join 2/1600+1100 rails giving me 4.3m. Always end up with a perfectly straight cut. The next lot of boards that butt in work perfectly as long as I have set it square. Also as Jonathan has said the kss saws are something to thing about Thanks Wrightwoodwork, I will see about the connections. That would be nice not to have to transport. However I built a case for my other one. It rides nicely in my racks.
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rails?
Jan 16, 2015 18:33:37 GMT -5
Post by MrToolJunkie on Jan 16, 2015 18:33:37 GMT -5
Not trying to put you off getting the long rail. Personally I wouldnt bother as others have said when joining, they self straighten. Also a 3.1m rail is a pain to transport. I seen myself doing the floors and their is a change in the joist direction so the flooring will changed direction. I will do the first section and let the boards fly through for the first part then I will join 2/1600+1100 rails giving me 4.3m. Always end up with a perfectly straight cut. The next lot of boards that butt in work perfectly as long as I have set it square. Also as Jonathan has said the kss saws are something to thing about Thanks Wrightwoodwork, I will see about the connections. That would be nice not to have to transport. However I built a case for my other one. It rides nicely in my racks. As others have said, the MT works with Festool and F tracks. The F tracks are instant straight, more rigid and you can use clamps right at the cut line if needed. They are great. The KSS saws ride the F style nicely and with the cross-cut track you have some real versatility.
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rails?
Jan 16, 2015 23:40:22 GMT -5
Post by 7 on Jan 16, 2015 23:40:22 GMT -5
I have the F-310 rail but because of some longwinded shipping reason Timberwolf had to cut 16" off of it before shipping it. Now the exact length is 106". I have liked having the long rail even though I have a few of the F-160s also. I do just connect the rails usually for site use but have liked having the long rail in the shop. In my work it is mandatory that I have either the 310 and an F-160 or three F-160s so that I don't constantly need to switch back & forth for rips & crosscuts on 4x8 sheet goods. The rail joining system is flawless for sure but I would get really annoyed connecting & disconnecting all the time.
Also, Welcome Calidecks. I use the KSS 400 all the time on decks. It is nice to not need to use a speed square with a worm drive on the edge of deck boards to square them up & can do the cuts right off the stack instead of awkwardly humping 20' long trex onto a miter saw. The KSS saws are extremely nice for skirting/ facia, borders, framing joists, etc etc.
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rails?
Jan 17, 2015 0:15:19 GMT -5
Post by calidecks on Jan 17, 2015 0:15:19 GMT -5
I have the F-310 rail but because of some longwinded shipping reason Timberwolf had to cut 16" off of it before shipping it. Now the exact length is 106". I have liked having the long rail even though I have a few of the F-160s also. I do just connect the rails usually for site use but have liked having the long rail in the shop. In my work it is mandatory that I have either the 310 and an F-160 or three F-160s so that I don't constantly need to switch back & forth for rips & crosscuts on 4x8 sheet goods. The rail joining system is flawless for sure but I would get really annoyed connecting & disconnecting all the time. Also, Welcome Calidecks. I use the KSS 400 all the time on decks. It is nice to not need to use a speed square with a worm drive on the edge of deck boards to square them up & can do the cuts right off the stack instead of awkwardly humping 20' long trex onto a miter saw. The KSS saws are extremely nice for skirting/ facia, borders, framing joists, etc etc. Thanks God, please excuse my ignorance, but how does the kss 400 square up ends? Do you use a track that small for an end cut? Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Jan 17, 2015 1:18:16 GMT -5
I have the F-310 rail but because of some longwinded shipping reason Timberwolf had to cut 16" off of it before shipping it. Now the exact length is 106". I have liked having the long rail even though I have a few of the F-160s also. I do just connect the rails usually for site use but have liked having the long rail in the shop. In my work it is mandatory that I have either the 310 and an F-160 or three F-160s so that I don't constantly need to switch back & forth for rips & crosscuts on 4x8 sheet goods. The rail joining system is flawless for sure but I would get really annoyed connecting & disconnecting all the time. Also, Welcome Calidecks. I use the KSS 400 all the time on decks. It is nice to not need to use a speed square with a worm drive on the edge of deck boards to square them up & can do the cuts right off the stack instead of awkwardly humping 20' long trex onto a miter saw. The KSS saws are extremely nice for skirting/ facia, borders, framing joists, etc etc. Thanks God, please excuse my ignorance, but how does the kss 400 square up ends? Do you use a track that small for an end cut? Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly. I will answer and let 7 answer too - oh, and 7 may be a "God", but that is his ranking of posts...Wrightwood is also a "God", LOL. The KSS track is a unique cross-cut track with little pins on the bottom that you can align to 90 degrees and pretty much any angle up to 60 degrees. They have detents at all the common angles too. So, you line the track to your cut line and it is square to the edge. The saw has an elastic band that pulls it back after the cut and also helps had tension against the edge to keep the rail square. It is a slick system. Many users adopt the KSS for many cuts that they used to make on a miter saw. The only time I use a miter saw since getting my KSS so far are for repeat lengths. Otherwise, I strike a mark and cut and it is dead-on accurate. You can then detach the saw if you want from the cross-cut track and use it like a regular circular saw or on one of the f-rails for a guided cut.
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rails?
Jan 18, 2015 0:39:45 GMT -5
Post by 7 on Jan 18, 2015 0:39:45 GMT -5
Calidecks- "Thanks God" I guess I am ignorant too cause that was hilarious. Keep making posts on the forum and one day to your surprise you will also become deity:)
It's oddly hard to describe the KSS saws but a quick video search makes sense of it. As for squaring the end of the decking- I was just referring to single peices of 5/4 x 6 Trex etc not the running the deck boards wild then cutting them all at the end. When a deck is wider than the longest length of decking I typically frame out a joist bay and run a single deck board perpindicular to the main body of the deck instead of staggering and splitting deck boards on joists. So I was just saying that it's nice and fast to just use a KSS saw with the attached track to square up the ends of the deck boards before installing them against the one perpindicular pc without needing to hold a speed square in one hand and a circular saw in the other. Obviously it's faster & straighter to just run the deck boards wild & chalk a line or cut them after the fact with a track saw at the deck edge but for borders, facia, risers etc I like using the KSS saws a lot more than packing flimsy long heavy synthetic decking to a miter saw.
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rails?
Jan 18, 2015 14:44:05 GMT -5
7 likes this
Post by calidecks on Jan 18, 2015 14:44:05 GMT -5
Calidecks- "Thanks God" I guess I am ignorant too cause that was hilarious. Keep making posts on the forum and one day to your surprise you will also become deity:) It's oddly hard to describe the KSS saws but a quick video search makes sense of it. As for squaring the end of the decking- I was just referring to single peices of 5/4 x 6 Trex etc not the running the deck boards wild then cutting them all at the end. When a deck is wider than the longest length of decking I typically frame out a joist bay and run a single deck board perpindicular to the main body of the deck instead of staggering and splitting deck boards on joists. So I was just saying that it's nice and fast to just use a KSS saw with the attached track to square up the ends of the deck boards before installing them against the one perpindicular pc without needing to hold a speed square in one hand and a circular saw in the other. Obviously it's faster & straighter to just run the deck boards wild & chalk a line or cut them after the fact with a track saw at the deck edge but for borders, facia, risers etc I like using the KSS saws a lot more than packing flimsy long heavy synthetic decking to a miter saw. Lmao! So I can get off my knees now?
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