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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 30, 2014 10:44:01 GMT -5
OK... First, thanks Ghostfist for adding this topic.
For and users of these saws, what are your thoughts? As I continue researching saws for my needs I wanted to get some insight in these saws. The main reason is I think that the 65 and 85 would allow beveling of 8/4 and are smaller/lighter than the KS85 (although this might be the replacement of the KSP85?).
As I understand things, they still plunge and operate just like the KSS400/300, but without the crosscut track. As others have noted, the 80 does not cut 4x so it loses some functionality there so I wonder if a smaller saw capable of ripping to suite a majority of my work is a better way to go initially. The MKS is likely not going to find a way into my shop, so I am really exploring alternatives to cover 70%-90% of my regular needs.
Thanks!
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Aug 30, 2014 12:54:28 GMT -5
OK I have got the ksp85. It is on the whole a really good saw loads of power I have it 240 so it has 2250w motor. In 110 the motor is 1800 watts. Do won't be as powerful I guess. Saying that the Erika which I have is 110 is only 1800 and it never has a problem. I have had a brief shot of the new k85 saw the wright difference between it and ksp85 is marginal. It's not noticeable. The k85 has some advantages over the ksp85. The main one being the guard has a lever to lift it up on the inside of the saw, where the ksp is situated on the outside making it at times awkward to get the guard out if the way. The plunge works off a single lever just press a button and lift or lower the lever. Where the ksp uses 2 levers same as the kss400 one to lock the other for the height. The height markings fir the ksp85 is set for off the rails. Where the ks85 there is marking for both off and on the rails, similar to the festool ts55r so don't need to turn the dial round. I don't know for sure if the ks85 has or not,but on the kss 80 version you can set a depth stop a little bit like what you see on a sliding chop saws for making a housing joint. Then you can flick it out of the way the way to make a full depth cut. Then you can put it back and make the same depth of cut for your housing. You can use the ksp85 on the rails and at 90 the cut line is easy to work out its on the edge same as the kss or mt saws. Then if you are making bevel cuts and need to use the second groove the cut line is not on the same cut line so you need to do a bit of trial and error. Where the ks85 the cut line is the same line always. I also think but not 100% sure but the ks85 in 110 is 2300w. Personally I would go for KS 85
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 30, 2014 13:54:11 GMT -5
Thanks, Aaron! Great insight as always...but if I go the KS85 route then I might as well go the KSS80 to take advantage of the cross-cut track, LOL. The KSP 65 looks to be a little lighter, but maybe it is all negligible and I am sure it does not matter pushing it through the material - in fact the added weight probably is useful.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 31, 2014 0:02:32 GMT -5
Do these saws have soft-start or do they have a little kick when starting?
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Post by alvychippy on Dec 2, 2018 12:24:11 GMT -5
Do these saws have soft-start or do they have a little kick when starting? Seriously contemplating in aquiring one (HSK65F), just ever so little info, as if saw has failed somewhat? My biggest wander if she'd perform clean enough cuts on the rails...
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