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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 3, 2014 12:34:57 GMT -5
At the weekend I'll try to do a vid explaining the set up and different ways of setting up. Also maybe shod do a vid of setting up the stop rail system. The stop rail system is good as long as all cuts are the same angle 90. Or whatever angle you set the first on at. If changing the angle every time best with the mfa fence or universal fence with a set rollers I think I might invest in the rollers with the bearings
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 3, 2014 13:12:13 GMT -5
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Post by jalvis on Sept 4, 2014 10:38:23 GMT -5
That bit looks like the style you can adjust for panel thickness. That router should handle that with ease but I would make two passes.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 28, 2014 14:44:13 GMT -5
here is a vid using the lo65 and the router extension kit on the erika to make rebates in 400mm wide boards. What I have noticed is that when doing rebates where the dust extraction is from the top as well it works really good. Where making grooves from bellow don't work as good
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Dec 19, 2014 19:51:07 GMT -5
Picked up a second guide fence for the router to aid with making mortise joints. When I have a couple of framed linned and braced doors sometime next year. Also thinking of getting the guide rail for the router funds allow to aid with the tenons. Not sure of the exact size other than they are approximate 1.4m x 2.3m
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 19, 2014 23:44:32 GMT -5
Vroom vroom!
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Dec 31, 2014 0:58:21 GMT -5
Aaron - that is a great set-up. I use two fences all the time for cutting mortises and grooves. Makes a huge difference and allows super accurate cuts with no worry of the router wandering.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Dec 31, 2014 5:30:47 GMT -5
Still to use. I have a couple of barn doors to make in the spring. So will be perfect for that I recon. Thinking of getting spiral router bits to cut out the mortises. Also plan to maybe get the 1m guide rail for the router, to aid aid with cutting the tenons. The mf26 would be nice just a little bit to much money the now
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Post by blend on Mar 10, 2015 12:17:48 GMT -5
This is crazy. $3000!!!! Jig making is an essential part of being a good carpenter/ joiner. You could make a jig for this thats easily good enough to get the job done in a couple of hours then chuck it when the jobs done. Also if you damage it by accident with the router cutter. you can chuck it and make another one.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Mar 10, 2015 13:08:50 GMT -5
totally agree about jig making when i need to buy a jig i will be just making it
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Post by GhostFist on Mar 10, 2015 15:21:10 GMT -5
If you take into account the time it takes to accurately cut timber frame joinery, for the professional timber framer the jig set would pay for itself. To the occasional timber framer, not worth it.
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Post by blend on Mar 10, 2015 15:39:55 GMT -5
But if you make it, you can save yourself $3000 minus a couple of hours to make one up. Then you can take your wife on a skiing trip and still have a some cash left over. I just think its shame people paying so much for jigs when people used to take pride in building their own. Also its a waste of money. I remember working with two carpenters who had just bought the trend hinge jig, within the first few hours of buying it they had caught the router cutter on the aluminium jig. easily done and rendered it useless. I think they're about £120, you'd be pretty gutted if you'd spent $3000 and did the same thing. Save up a bit more and buy a Makita 5500s or similar tennoner. That would really save some time.
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Post by GhostFist on Mar 10, 2015 18:26:27 GMT -5
I hear you and am on your side. I'm much more in to making jigs. In fact I'm in to making as much of my own stuff as possible, benches tool boxes and the like, not to mention jigs.
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Post by holmz on May 23, 2015 2:53:17 GMT -5
I have 2 immediate needs for a router, and they ar: 1) To inset some dadoes for a floating panel in door. 2) For drilling holes for shelf pins. Looking at this: www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/fsn-ofa-32-kit-800-34897-ocs-p/Where does one find out which router fit the base that attaches to the drilled rail? I am wondering if I am 1/2 mad... After reading on FOG the woes of the 1010, and looking at the cost I am not sure that is a good way to go. And their hole drilling set up is $600. So I am considering that Bosch attachment for the guide rail. Looking at the small dewalt it is 3-kg or 6-1/2 pounds. sydneytools.com.au/dewalt-d26204k-900w-8mm-premium-combination-multibase-plunge-fixed-base-router-trimmerThe OF1010 is 13.1 pounds, or almost 6-kg. It is $435 US ($819 AU), and it only does 1/4 and 8-mm bits. As I need 220v the US price is not too important, so it is $819 AUD. The Mafell LO 50 seems to be discontinued?? Dictum shows it at 479 Euro or without VAT at 445 US$ (445 AUD) plus shipping (~100?) ~= $550 AUD. It does 1/4 and 8-mm (6 and 8 mm) At 2.7 kg is 1/2 the weight of the the OF1010 and still is 1000W. On the other hand the MaFell LO 65 Ec is 5.7 kg, and is 2.6kW, and does 6-mm through 1/2". It is 882 $US, so 1127 Au, plus the 1000 shipping= 1227, plus the 20% GST and duty goes to $1472 AUD. I guess I talked just myself into the LO 50 over the OF1010 on cost and weight. The LO 50 seems to be discontinued. Any further insights? Sounds like every one is happy (?) Alternatively I could just haul the dry assembled stuff to the local cabinet shop and pay them a couple hundred to do the routing? And another stack to do driling on the shilf peices.
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Post by GhostFist on May 23, 2015 4:43:30 GMT -5
I quite like my 1010. I know nothing of the 50 being discontinued.
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