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Post by Tom Gensmer on Apr 30, 2018 3:53:07 GMT -5
The MT-55 is a tougher, more powerful saw so certain users will get more use out of it, and the Mafell track system is easier to use than the FS. That being said, if you are only processing sheet goods the 55REQ is sufficient for many users as well. I have the MT-55 and love it.
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arth
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Post by arth on Apr 30, 2018 23:11:27 GMT -5
The Mafell/Bosch saws will run on a Festool track as well which means you'll be able to use parallel guides. Obviously it would require getting a FT rail in addition to the Mafell/Bosch rails. The downside would be that you can't make beveled cuts (as far as I remember) but can't see that as a huge problem if you're only ripping sheets.
Otherwise a stop rule works fine, I'd say its just as precise but obviously involves a little more work. I've butted it up against the back of the guide using the rail drawings from here to calculate the cut. Makes for a very precise cut.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on May 1, 2018 2:46:17 GMT -5
The Mafell/Bosch saws will run on a Festool track as well which means you'll be able to use parallel guides. Obviously it would require getting a FT rail in addition to the Mafell/Bosch rails. The downside would be that you can't make beveled cuts (as far as I remember) but can't see that as a huge problem if you're only ripping sheets. Otherwise a stop rule works fine, I'd say its just as precise but obviously involves a little more work. I've butted it up against the back of the guide using the rail drawings from here to calculate the cut. Makes for a very precise cut. I keep a FS guide rail (1080 and 1900) around for use with the parallel guides. With the introduction of the Bosch tracks in North America we’ll hopefully see an expansion of the accessories for the F-tracks....
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paulj
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Post by paulj on May 2, 2018 0:04:28 GMT -5
I have the parallel guides, but honestly it is faster and just as accurate to mark a line and make the cut. If you are making similar rips then you can always stack material. I use a rule stop to get perfectly parallel cuts and it works great with nothing flopping around the rail. The Mafell rails are machined straight and square so this method works well for me. Your mileage may vary, but something to consider. Anyone used this as a stop rule before or can it even be used as a stop rule? Marking-Vernier-Caliper-with-fine-adjustment-T-Marking-Vernier-Caliper
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Post by MrToolJunkie on May 3, 2018 23:40:18 GMT -5
... I use a rule stop to get perfectly parallel cuts and it works great with nothing flopping around the rail... Who's rule stops do you use? I think I'd like to try one, should also make subtracting blade kerf more accurate too for opposite side cuts. I use woodpeckers 36 inch rule and stop for wider rips and I have a shorter one for 12 inches or less from Lee Valley. Nothing too sophisticated. I just use one and butt it up against the rail at both ends and the middle and make the cut.
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Post by kraftt on May 4, 2018 0:41:18 GMT -5
I use woodpeckers 36 inch rule and stop for wider rips and I have a shorter one for 12 inches or less from Lee Valley. Nothing too sophisticated. I just use one and butt it up against the rail at both ends and the middle and make the cut. Yeah, I was looking at the 12" Lee Valley one too and liked the design of it. Thanks.
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arth
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Post by arth on May 4, 2018 10:14:51 GMT -5
For longer rips Veritas makes a rule stop that fits most generic steel rulers. Works fine as long as your ruler isn't too wide.
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Post by calidecks on May 13, 2018 1:20:15 GMT -5
I've owned the Makita, Ts55req, and the Mafell.
The one I have left is the MT55cc it's a pleasure to use. The Makita has good power. So does the Mafell.
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Post by carver on Nov 28, 2018 17:25:16 GMT -5
I think that I understand what you mean, but not 100% sure Do you have any pictures of this rip set-up using the aluminium angle etc.
Thanks
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Post by carver on Nov 28, 2018 17:38:44 GMT -5
All you need is an aluminium angle with two holes, two t-track t-bolts and nuts, plus a stop and clamp. Drill holes to line up with the t-tracks in the Mafell rail, the aluminium angle will protrude to the left (it can be as long as you need it to be), set it up with a square before tightening in place (it will double up as a rail square), then put a stop in place with a clamp to the desired length. To use, butt the stop block to the end of the panel you are cutting, push the aluminium angle to the front of the panel - and cut! Parallel guide and square combined for 20€! Hi does anyone have and pictures of this set up. Apologies for a newby error. I think that I have posted this twice
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Post by aas on Nov 29, 2018 1:05:31 GMT -5
I don't, maybe someone else can help out?
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Post by bernard on Dec 2, 2018 7:17:00 GMT -5
I'd really like to see a picture of this as well. I've been trying to fabricate my own, but with limited success. The system described above sounds like the right solution, but I don't quite understand it from the text alone.
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Post by aas on Dec 2, 2018 14:23:44 GMT -5
I can never post pictures here so even if I had any I couldn't...
The Mafell rails have two T-track slots underneath. First step, get hold of some T-track adapters (T-bolts) - I purchased some Kreg's following advice on this forum. Then get some aluminium angle as long as you need it to be (for example, if you need your parallel guides to repeatedly cut 800mm, get a couple of 1000m lengths.
Drill the aluminium angle to take the T-track adapters (T-bolts) to line up with BOTH of the T-track slots under the Mafell rail. Make sure the first hole nearest the splinter strip means the aluminium angle will not extended pass the splinter strip (otherwise you'll be running your saw blade into it!)
Fit the first angle under the rail, allowing enough of the rail behind the angle so the saw can sit on the rail without entering the piece to be cut. Tighten the outermost (splinter strip side) T-bolt. Then put your preferred accurate square between the back of the Mafell rail and the aluminium angle, adjust to square and tighten the second T bolt.
You should now have a rail with an accurately aligned aluminium angle fitted underneath at 90 degrees. Now measure from the splinter strip, under the rail and along the aluminium angle to mark the length you want to cut. Clamp a block of wood or offcut of aluminium angle to the front to be used as a stop at the required distance.
To use, you lay the rail on the work, butt the aluminium angle up to the work to ensure the rail is square, slide the assembly to the right until the stop is touching the left hand end of the work - and hey presto - you have an accurate parallel guide with built in square for 20 euro/dollars/pounds.
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Post by jimbouk on Dec 2, 2018 15:35:36 GMT -5
I can never post pictures here so even if I had any I couldn't... The Mafell rails have two T-track slots underneath. First step, get hold of some T-track adapters (T-bolts) - I purchased some Kreg's following advice on this forum. Then get some aluminium angle as long as you need it to be (for example, if you need your parallel guides to repeatedly cut 800mm, get a couple of 1000m lengths. Drill the aluminium angle to take the T-track adapters (T-bolts) to line up with BOTH of the T-track slots under the Mafell rail. Make sure the first hole nearest the splinter strip means the aluminium angle will not extended pass the splinter strip (otherwise you'll be running your saw blade into it!) Fit the first angle under the rail, allowing enough of the rail behind the angle so the saw can sit on the rail without entering the piece to be cut. Tighten the outermost (splinter strip side) T-bolt. Then put your preferred accurate square between the back of the Mafell rail and the aluminium angle, adjust to square and tighten the second T bolt. You should now have a rail with an accurately aligned aluminium angle fitted underneath at 90 degrees. Now measure from the splinter strip, under the rail and along the aluminium angle to mark the length you want to cut. Clamp a block of wood or offcut of aluminium angle to the front to be used as a stop at the required distance. To use, you lay the rail on the work, butt the aluminium angle up to the work to ensure the rail is square, slide the assembly to the right until the stop is touching the left hand end of the work - and hey presto - you have an accurate parallel guide with built in square for 20 euro/dollars/pounds. Pretty much how the FC rail square works, I'm sure there will be a parallel attachment for that at some point...
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